Triumph Spitfire was launched in 1962 to compete with Austin-Healey Sprite, but in the same year another competitor also emerged-MGB. Thanks to the independent chassis structure, Triumph’s Herald provides the perfect platform for the development of a new two-seater roadster, even if the mechanical device is derived from the standard No. 8 in 1953.
Triumph does not provide a lot of power, but only 670 kg of weight, performance is better than you think-especially when the 1147cc four-cylinder is equipped with dual carbohydrates, hotter camshafts and more free-breathing exhaust manifolds.
In the production process of nearly 20 years, the engine has been continuously developed, the body has been redesigned, and the suspension has been honed to make the car’s handling more predictable. However, none of these cars are really fast, and there is no élan that can provide Elan, but you will not pay the price of Lotus.
There are many projects about Spitfire, but if you want to repair the car correctly, even at home, even if you buy something that needs to be overhauled, you can make a good balance. However, you’d better buy one of these or a very good car-not something in between. You will most likely pay for a car that requires a lot of work.
There is not much difference in values between the different Spitfire incarnations; later cars are more practical, but earlier cars offer higher design purity. Therefore, they are all equally sought after-although the Mk3 is particularly popular because of its better lines than the MkIV and 1500, it is relatively usable.
Three different engines are installed throughout the life cycle of the Spitfire, each of which is installed on other models in the Triumph series. Since the Spitfire is usually the most well-tuned in its class, you need to make sure that the engine you install belongs to that engine, because the less powerful device is usually replaced by other Triumph models.
All Spitfire engine numbers begin with F: FC for MkI/MkII, FD for MkIII, FH for MkIV (but FK for American cars) and FH for 1500 (FM for American cars). However, other things are likely to be installed, such as starting G (Pioneer), D (Dolomite), or Y (1500 sedan) engines.
The MkI and MkII Spitfires are equipped with 1147cc engines, but since these early cars are rare, you are unlikely to find a car equipped with one of these rather daring power units. Even if you do find a first or second generation car, it is now possible to replace the engine with a later unit. The MkIII is equipped with a 1296cc power unit, which has been extended to the MkIV, but with less power due to emission control equipment.
The first three generations of Spitfire fighters use the same four-speed manual gearbox, and all gears except for the first gear use synchromesh. MkIV is equipped with the same gearbox, but with synchronizers in all gear ratios, while the 1500 is equipped with a device from Marina, which is the most durable of all gearboxes.
• Engine: 1147cc and 1296cc engines are very durable, but all Spitfire engines must be fitted with the correct oil filter to prevent them from failing prematurely. The filter has a check valve to prevent the oil from flowing back to the oil pan when the car is leaving; if there is a lot of rattling when the car starts, it is because the big end bearing of the crankshaft has such a sound, it may be because the correct type is not installed Filter. Once this happens, bottom-end reconstruction is required.
• Small engines: These two smaller engines can usually accelerate up to 100,000 miles without problems. The first sign of wear is usually due to the corrosion of the rocker shaft and the rocker arm causing the tip to tremble. Budget for high-end reconstruction.
• Thrust washer: A problem that often affects 1296cc engines is the wear of the thrust washer, which is caused by excessive back and forth movement of the crankshaft. The easiest way to check this is to push and pull the front pulley; any detectable movement means a possible disaster, as the crankshaft and cylinder block may eventually be damaged. MkIV Spitfires are especially prone to these problems; when the engine is ticking, listen to the rumble from the bottom.
• Crankshaft wear: The 1493cc engine installed on the Spitfire 1500 has its own problems because the crankshaft and pistons and piston rings are severely worn. Watch out for rattles and blue smoke.
• Gearbox: All gearboxes have a long service life, but too long a driving range will necessitate modification.
• Synchro: The synchronizer is usually the first action, so check for any obstructions when going up and down. Also listen to the grumble, which indicates that the gear has worn out or rumbles, which indicates that the bearing is about to fall off.
• Overload: Many Spitfires have overloads, which can also cause problems. The first thing to check when it is not engaged is whether the electrical work is normal; they are usually the main cause of the problem. If it is not, the oil level may have fallen below the minimum value. The worst-case scenario is to rebuild the overdrive gear, the price is about £250.
• Drive shaft: If the drive shaft needs to be balanced, it will vibrate at a certain speed and will disappear after acceleration. When the drive is occupied when moving forward or backward, the worn gimbal is jingled away.
• Clutch: The clutch does not have any special problems, so just check whether it slips when accelerating or whether it trembles when the clutch is released.
• Differential: The differential will whine when worn. Even if things sound bad, the rear axle will continue to move forward, but this obviously needs to be sorted out.
• Suspension: Spitfire’s front suspension itself is easy to operate due to the use of a flip-up bonnet. This is also good, because there are all kinds of things that can cause trouble-but they are all very cheap and very simple to install.
• Bushing: The nylon bushing in the brass trunnion will wear out, so you can use a crowbar to play. If EP90 oil is not pumped every six months or so, the main problem with the trunnion is the wear of the bottom threaded brass.
• Rubber bushings: There are various other rubber bushings throughout the suspension, all of which will disappear at some point-but if you want to install a complete new kit, if you need to replace it, their price Very cheap
• Anti-roll bar: The anti-roll bar link may also be disconnected, but it only costs £8 each, so don’t worry. The same goes for the rest of the front suspension. There are various potential weaknesses, but they can all be repaired quickly and cheaply.
• Bearings: Wheel bearings will wear, as will the end of the track rod, the steering rack and the upper ball joint located on the top wishbone. Rubber bogie brackets can also be damaged, usually after they are soaked in leaking engine oil. Your best choice is to feel the game by going below.
• Suspension: The rear suspension can also have problems, but it is generally easy to overhaul, with one key exception; wheel bearings. These are worn out and are difficult to remove when a press is needed.
• Spring and shock absorber: In addition to the shock absorber is easy to replace wear or leakage, the only possible problem is that the leaf spring sags. If the top of the wheel disappears above the wheel arch, the spring needs to be replaced.
• Steering: Rack-and-pinion steering is unlikely to have any problems because it will not take too much pressure, even though the Spitfire’s turning circle is very tight.
• Braking: The situation is similar for braking. They are completely traditional, so you only need to pay attention to rear wheel cylinder leaks, caliper piston jams, and handbrake jams. All parts are available.
• Rust: Corrosion is the main enemy of the Spitfire; it can hit the body shell and chassis, and the threshold is critical to the strength of the car.
• Door-to-door repairs: Many car owners repair their Spitfire at home and do not support the body shell when replacing the three-piece door sills, which distorts the body shell.
• Window sills: First check the integrity of the window sills; the area where they meet the tail wing is the most likely place to be corroded. Once it rots, long-term maintenance will require skill.
• Water on the window sill: Also look at the front edge of each window sill; holes are likely to appear here. Water will enter, causing serious damage to the entire window sill.
• Decay: There are more decay points to check: the rear quarter panel, door bottom, trunk floor and windshield frame may all be severely corroded.
• More decay: the same goes for A-pillars, wheel arches (inside and outside), and headlight surrounds and front curtains.
• More rust: the floor will also corrode, sometimes because rot spreads from the window sill, sometimes because the foothole is filled with water.
• Panel gap: Next, check if the door is closed, the door should be straight down. If the car is not repaired well and the casing is twisted in the process, the door will not be flush all the way down and the closing line will not be even.
• Collision damage: The possibility of accident damage is also high, because these cars usually attract inexperienced drivers after enjoying some cheap fun. If the car has undergone a major diversion, the damage will be obvious; any impact that is sufficient to distort the main chassis will damage the car’s delicate panel.
• Chassis damage: Minor impacts may cause you the most problems, as they may be more difficult to spot. However, if the panel is installed in the entire front position, it is likely that the front chassis rail attached to the drapery has been damaged.
• Electronic products: Although some type of electrical problem is likely to occur, it is usually just a poor grounding or failure of some cheap replacement components. Everything is available and fits without any problems.
• Trim: Again, trim should not cause any problems, because most of it is remanufactured. However, some parts of early cars are difficult to master, but if you are looking for MkIV or 1500, you can retune the car to its original specifications or upgrade it easily and relatively cheaply.
1967: MkIII came out, equipped with a 1296cc engine, easier-to-use hood and modified styles.
1970: MkIV brings another facelift, plus a fully synchronized gearbox and more predictable handling, thanks to an improved rear suspension.
1973: Version 1500 was released, only for the US market. Since all emission control equipment must be installed, a larger motor is required. There is also a wider rare track to overcome processing problems.
The stimulus is not much cheaper than one of them. Spitfire is even cheaper than the equivalent MG Midget or B, and may be the cheapest way to enjoy topless driving. For a small amount, you can buy a Spitfire that can continue to travel; if you have a set of sockets on hand, you can even buy an item for 1,000 pounds.
If your budget is very tight, it will be difficult for you to find anything that offers the same fun as Spitfire, but such a low value is a double-edged sword, because as a result, there is a lot of garbage available. If you buy a construction vehicle, Knowing that it requires a lot of work, that’s okay.
Most cars are now repaired and it is difficult to find originality; suspension systems, exhausts, engines and wheels are often upgraded, so don’t expect to find time warped cars. Lack of originality is usually not a problem (although it may be a problem for you), but poor repairs are a problem because many home restorers cut teeth on cars such as Spitfires.
But the good news is that it’s easy to spot an idiot more than 100 steps away, so please buy with your eyes open and get ready to have some cheap fun. Early cars are of course the most valuable. The Mk1, Mk2 and Mk3 models are all priced at around £8,000 in their best condition.
The average price of a car is 3000-5000 pounds, and the project starts at about 1000 pounds. Later Mk4 and 1500 models are still cheap models, with a maximum price of about 5500 pounds, and good treadmills on the market sell for 2000-3750 pounds. A viable project can still be found at a price of approximately £850.
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Post time: Aug-16-2021
