Ngokwembali, ezi zithuba ziye zafana nemivalo yabantu abaninzi. Ukuphindaphinda kwale mihla kuvumela ukurhoxa komntu kwisixeko esingenamfihlo - phakathi kwabantu ongabaziyo.
Igumbi labucala ngaphakathi kwesebe leShailand Silver Jubilee Mini Teahouse Chain, apho iindwendwe zinokonwabela amagqabi kunye neti yomgubo kunye nesnacks kwindawo nje eqhelekileyo.Credit…Josh Robenstone
Abafazi badlala amakhadi, bajongana ngobuchule, ngaphandle kwebala. Umsi wecuba. Sasikwisithili saseHuangpu kumbindi weShanghai, isixeko esinabantu abamalunga nezigidi ezingama-25, kodwa abafazi abathandathu yayikuphela kwabathengi endibabonileyo eDehe Teahouse, eHanzo kumgangatho wesibini wedolophu. indawo yokuzivocavoca.
Kungo-Okthobha ka-2019, kwaye ngaphezulu kweenyanga ezimbini ngaphambi kokuba kuxelwe ityala lokuqala kwihlabathi le-coronavirus entsha. Ndandingenamaski kuloliwe ohamba ngaphantsi komhlaba, ndisilwa ecaleni kwabantu endingabaziyo. Indlu yeti, ke ngoko, yaba sisiqabu kwisihlwele: Ndangena ngesango lelitye elaligadwe ziingonyama ezisinekayo, emva koko ndawela ibhulorho emfutshane phezu kwekoi eyozela echibini ukuya kwindawo efana ne-mausoleum. Umgangatho otshayelayo ngentla Kukho iithayile ezimenyezelayo ezimnyama kunye nezibane ezibomvu ezivuza umphetho. Umkhenkethi wam, uAshley Loh we-UnTour Food Tours, waye wabiza ngaphambili ukuze enze idinga, saza sazimela ecaleni komjikelezo, iikhethini zibotshelelwe kwikona ekhutshiweyo.Iti yayiyilento besiyizele apha, kodwa emva koku-odola, sachwechwa, sagqitha kumanenekazi esasaza amakhadi awo, saya kwi-buffet - iipleyiti zembiza eshushu ezizaliswe sisidudu, isuphu yombona oswiti, i-taro eshushu kunye ne-borscht Isuphu, esekwe kwi-borscht eziswe esixekweni ngabaphambukeli baseRashiya emva kweNguquko kaOktobha yowe-1917.
Iglasi ende yabekwa phambi kwam, i-aquarium ehlala i-anemone: i-chrysanthemum egalelwe ukusuka kwindawo ephakamileyo kunye namanzi ashushu, ivelisa i-ale e-resinous pale enevumba elimnandi kunayo Incasa yomelele. , phantse amava ngengozi - ukuphumla ngokukhawuleza kwisixeko esiqhubekayo; ukukhangela indawo yokuzimela ecacileyo kwilizwe elingquzulanayo nengcamango yobumfihlo bomntu; Ukuphikisana nokuba wedwa, ngelixa sikunye nabanye, sonke sizinikele ekulandeleni lo mzuzu udlulayo. Bendicinga ukuba ndilapha kwiti yeti, kodwa kwavela ukuba ndifuna enye into ngokupheleleyo. Ndandingekayazi. ukuba iindawo ezinje ziya kuvalwa kwihlabathi kwiinyanga ezimbalwa kwaye umhlaba wam uya kuncipha ukuya kwimida yekhaya lam. Andazi ukuba ndiza kuyikhumbula kangakanani le nto.
Iti indala kwaye ibaluleke kakhulu kwi-self-concept.Iifossils ezivela kwiphondo laseYunnan kumzantsi-ntshona welizwe zibonisa ubukho bokhokho obunokwenzeka ngqo bomthi weti kwiminyaka eyi-35 yezigidi eyadlulayo. -8 kwiinkulungwane BC; Iintsalela zeti zafunyanwa kwingcwaba lomlawuli owafa ngo-141 BC; Ukukhankanywa kokuqala kokusela iti esidlangalaleni kubonakala kwi-7 AD ukuya kwi-Tang Dynasty ngenkulungwane yeshumi, kodwa inkcubeko ye-teahouse yayiluphuhliso lwamva nje, njengoko umbhali-mbali uWang Di ubhala kwi-Teahouses: Ishishini eliNcinci, iNkcubeko yeMihla yonke, kunye nePolitiki yoLuntu.Chengdu, 1900 -1950q (2008). Isuka kumatheko eti eti yemfundo kunye ne-ptiger stovesq yasesitalatweni, eyayithengisa amanzi ashushu ukwenza iti ekhaya, emva koko yaqalisa ukubeka izitulo ukuze abathengi bahlale.
ENtshona, izindlu zeti zihlala zicingelwa njenge-oasis engathobekiyo yokuzola kunye nokuzola, kunye ne-stylized action ballet yongeza i-mystique ekwenzeni iti kunye nokusela, ukukhuthaza kwangaphakathi kunye nokuzihlaziya. njengomahluko phakathi kwegumbi leti laseJapan, isithuba esilungiselelwe ngokukhethekileyo ngokobuhle obungqongqo bomsitho weti, asiyonto yokuzonwabisa ingako njengoko ibubugcisa, yaye izindlu zeTea kulapho iigeishas zonwabisa abathengi bazo.) Kodwa eTshayina, iTea house ukunyuka kwenkcubeko yendlu yeti mhlawumbi okuqulathwe ngokupheleleyo ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yama-20 eChengdu, kumzantsi ntshona weSichuan Provincejis iqhutywa ngumnqweno wonxibelelwano lwabantu. Ukwahlulwa ngokwejografi, umhlaba otyebileyo, imozulu epholileyo, kunye nenkqubo yokunkcenkceshela ebanzi yaseChengdu Plain yayithetha ukuba abalimi. kwakungeyomfuneko ukuba bahlanganisane ezilalini; endaweni yoko, babehlala kufutshane namasimi abo kwiindawo ezigqagqeneyo, ezihlala zodwa, ezifuna iindawo zokuhlangana njengezindlu zeeti njengeendawo zentlalo kunye nezorhwebo ezihambelana ne-Greek Agora, i-Italian Square kunye ne-Arabian Souks.
Kubantu baseChengdu, izindlu zeti ziyinxalenye ebalulekileyo yobomi bemihla ngemihla. Ngowe-1909, kwakukho iindawo zokusela iti ezingama-454 kwizitrato zesixeko ezingama-516. Njengoko zibulala ixesha, abathengi bazisa iintaka zabo ezifuywayo baze baxhome iikheji kwi-eves. , ukuwangawangisa izixhobo zotyando oluphantse lulingane.Iithayile zeMahjong ziyaqhekeka; ababalisi bamabali, maxa wambi abakrwada, batsala inkitha yezityebi namahlwempu; i-ad hoc "i-tea house bezopolitiko" bada bakhwaza bathi "Musa ukuxoxa ngemicimbi karhulumente" phantsi kwesilumkiso sebhena, oonovenkile Bethumela amagqabaza anjalo, boyika abasemagunyeni abasoloko bephaphile.Ngamafutshane, ezi ndawo azinakucamngca, iindawo ezinqabileyo.pUkususela ekuphumeni kwelanga ukuya ekutshoneni kwelanga, yonke indlu yeti yayigcwele, q uWang ucaphule umhleli kunye nomfundisi-ntsapho uShu Xincheng eChengdu ngeminyaka yoo-1920.
Njengendawo edibanisa uluntu kunye noluntu lwangasese, i-teahouse ivumela abantu abangabaziyo ukuba babandakanyeke kwaye batshintshiselane ngeengcamango ngendlela ekhululekile - ukuhamba ngokukhawuleza kuluntu olubeka intsapho njengeyunithi yentlalontle kunye nalapho izizukulwana ezininzi zabelana ngamava asekhaya. Kule nkululeko, ii-teahouses zinobudlelwane begazi kwiivenkile zekofu ngenkulungwane ye-17 neye-18 yaseYurophu, apho isithandi sobulumko saseJamani kunye nesazi sentlalontle u-Jȹrgen Habermas abunika ikhredithi yokwaphula imithetho eyayibanjwe yicawe ngaphambili. Abanye "bachaza i-monopoly", ngaloo ndlela bencedisa ukuzala ukuKhanya kunye nombuso.
I-China ayinakuze ichaze 'i-state-society duality' ebonwa eNtshona, njengoko umbhali-mbali u-Huang Zhongzheng ebhala 'kwi-China's 'Public Domain'/'Civil Society'?' (1993) .Kodwa umbhali-mbali uQin Shao ukholelwa ukuba ii-teahouses zamandulo, njengeemicrocosms zezixeko neelali, zazisenamandla okubhukuqa.Emva kokuwa kweQing Dynasty ngo-1912, inkcubeko ekhulayo, eyoyame eNtshona yabona izindlu zeti njengendawo yokuzalela eyingozi. kwi-diehards yamandulo kunye "nokonakala kokuziphatha kunye nesiphithiphithi sentlalo," u-Shao wabhala kwisincoko sika-1998 j ngokuyinxenye ngenxa yokuba ii-teahouses zivumela ngokufihlakeleyo ukungcakaza, ukuthengisa ngomzimba kunye nokucula iingoma ezingcolileyo, q kodwa nangenxa yokuba ukuzonwabisa ngokwako ngokukhawuleza kubonwa njengengozi kwimveliso, ukuchasa izinto zala maxesha kunye nesakhiwo esitsha esisesikweni sosuku lomsebenzi.UWang ucaphule isilogeni sasekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yama-20 esithi: “Musani ukuya kwindlu yeti, musa ukubukela imidlalo yasekuhlaleni; vele ulime amasimi ulime irayisi.”
Njengamandla ombuso adityaniswe phantsi kwenkokeli yeQela lamaKomanisi uMao Zedong, ubomi boluntu abuzange buncitshiswe nje kuphela, kodwa bunyulwe ngeendibano ezinkulu kunye nepropaganda ekhoyo yonke indawo.Ngexesha leNguqulelo yeNkcubeko yeminyaka yee-1960 kunye neyee-1970, ii-teahouses ezininzi ziye zavalwa xa ilizwi elivakeleyo lisenokugwetywa. Akuzange kube lixesha lasemva kukaMao elaqala ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1970 apho isiko lavuselelwa njengoko urhulumente wayekhulula amandla akhe kwicandelo labucala kwaye waguqukela kumbono “woqoqosho lwemarike yobusoshiyali” eyaphuhliswa yinkokeli eyayikho ngelo xesha uDeng Xiaoping. .Njengoko imigangatho yokuphila iphucuka, ngokunjalo nostalgiajonce kuthathwa njengengozi kwaye ijolise ekutshabalaliseni amasiko amadala, inkcubeko, imikhwa, kunye neengcinga ngu Maoos shabby movementjas inxalenye yokuqinisekiswa kwakhona ubuni benkcubeko phakathi kwezidubedube kwezoqoqosho Chinaos. indlela.I-Anthropologist uZhang Jinghong wabhala kwi-Pu-erh Tea: Iikharavani zamandulo kunye neFashoni yase-Urban (2014), inguqu ekhawulezayo ibe negunya lehlabathi.Ukusela iti ekhaya kunye noluntu phantse kube sisenzo sobuzwe, isiqinisekiso sokuba yiTshayina.
E-Shanghai-eyona megacity ihambele phambili kwezobuchwepheshe e-China-ngaphambi kobhubhane, u-Dehe waziva ecinezelekile, ekude lee kunabangaphambili bakhe base-Chengdu. Kukho iindawo ezixakekileyo zedolophu, mhlawumbi okona kubaluleke kakhulu i-Huxinting Teahouse erhangqwe ngabakhenkethi, inkundla entle ephezu kwe-Lotus Lake. .Kodwa phakathi kwamawaka esixeko sezindlu zeti, i-vanguard entsha indulula inguquko ukusuka kumanyano lwabantu abaninzi ukuya ekuzifihleni nasekucokiseni, nokuba kukwisetingi ezinikwe ifenitshala yakudala, efana noDehe, okanye ngokuqaphela avant-garde Isimbo sobuhle, esifana neTingtai Teahouse, Isithili sobugcisa se-M50 sendawo eyayisakuba yimizi-mveliso yasePutuo, iileya zayo zamagumbi abucala zigcinwe kwiibhokisi zentsimbi eziphakamileyo. Iphondo laseYunnan kumzantsi-ntshona weChina) etafileni.Ugcino luhlala lufuneka kwaye ixesha libekwe ukuze abathengi bangahlali ixesha elide.Kukubaleka, kodwa hayi ukusuka kwixesha.
Kuhlolisiso olwenziwa ngowe-1980 ngokusetyenziswa kweendawo zikawonke-wonke kwisiXeko saseNew York, elithi “The Social Life of Small Urban Spaces,” intatheli yaseMerika nokwangumcwangcisi wedolophu uWilliam H. White waphawula ukuba ngoxa abantu “besithi makukhwelwe kuko konke,” ubungqina bubonisa ukuba. ukuba batsaleleke kwiindawo ezixakekileyo: “Kubonakala ngathi ngabona bantu batsala kakhulu abantu.” Nangona kunjalo, kwezinye ii-teahouses ndindwendwele kunye noLoh (kwaye kamva kunye nomlobi wokutya uCrystall Mo), ukudibana phakathi kwabantu abangabaziyo kwagcinwa ubuncinci. njengokuba kwiklabhu yabucala; ngaxa lithile, isebe leSilver Creek Small Chain kwi Yuqing Road kwi Concession yangaphambili French, akukho phawu oluvela ngaphandle, nje umqolo chubby, oonodoli imonki expressionless. eludongeni.Ekungeneni kwakhe, uLoh wacinezela intloko kanodoli wesibini ngasekunene, lwathi lwakuvuleka ucango, sakhwela izitepsi, sadlula kwinkungu evuzayo. Egadini, iitafile zivalwe ngemibhobho yeglasi erhangqwe ngamanzi, iyafikeleleka. kuphela ngamatye okunyathela.
Iivenkile zekofu ngoku zikhuphisana nabo kubandakanywa ne-30,000-square-square-square-square-square-square-square-square-square-square storefront kwisithili saseShanghaios Jingoan, esavulwa ngo-2017jand teahouses kuye kwafuneka ukuba bavumelane. abanye basebenzisa iti njengendawo ekugxilwe kuyo, imisitho esesikweni efuna amagcisa anezakhono, okanye njengento yodidi olunamaxabiso anyuka ukuya kumawaka aliqela eyuan ngembiza, elingana namakhulu eedola.Oku kuphindaphindwa kwale mihla akufanelanga ncam imodeli yakudala yento kaShaw. ichaza "njengenye yezona ndawo zifikelelekayo zoluntu zentlalo," kwaye kunzima kubantu bangaphandle ukuthetha ukuba ungakanani umoya we-teahouse endala ye-freewheeling abaye bawugcina, apho "abantu abaqhelekileyo" banokuhleba kwaye baveze uluvo, "Ukukhupha iiMvakalelo Ezonakalisayo zokuPhendula." kwiNguquko yeNtlalo” ngaphandle koloyiko lweziphumo okanye ukungenelela kukarhulumente. Endaweni yoko, babonakala benohlobo olwahlukileyo lokukhumbula, becinga ngexesha apho ihlabathi lalingafuni okanye livaleke ngokulula ngakumbi. ukuhlehla.
Namhlanje, i-Twitter kunye ne-Facebook ngokungathandabuzekiyo zii-teahouses ezinkulu, ubuncinci kwabo banokungena ngokungenasiphelo kuzo. Nangona kunjalo, zombini zivaliwe yi-Firewall enkulu ngaphakathi kwe-China, kunye neqonga labo leendaba zoluntu ezikufutshane i-Weibo kunye ne-app ye-WeChat yokuthumela imiyalezo ibekwe esweni ngokusondeleyo. Nangona kunjalo, ulwazi lusafumaneka kwabo balufunayo.Ngexesha lam elifutshane eShanghai, abanye abantu balapha bandixelele malunga noqhanqalazo lwaseHong Kong lwedemokhrasi olwaqala ekuqaleni kwaloo nyaka (oluchazwa ngamajelo eendaba elizwekazi njengomsebenzi wezinye izigebenga ezazikhotyokiswe. ngamanxusa angaphandle), kunye nendlela amaUighurs Ingxaki yeUighurs, igcuntswana elithetha isiTurkic kwaye ubukhulu becala lingamaSilamsi entshona yeTshayina, ngaphezulu kwesigidi esivalelwa kwiinkampu zokufundisa kwakhona urhulumente amabango ukuba kuyimfuneko ukulwa ne-Islamic extremism.Sithetha ngokukhululekileyo esidlangalaleni kwaye akukho mntu ubonakala ephulaphule. Kodwa kwakhona, ndingubani mna?
Kwiminyaka emibini ukuya phambili, i-China yoyise kakhulu i-Covid-19 (ukusuka kulwahlulo lweDelta ngasekupheleni kukaJulayi ukuya kuthi ga ekupheleni kuka-Agasti) ngemithetho engqongqo yemaski kunye netekhnoloji yokucupha, ngelixa eNtshona inkululeko yomntu ngamnye ihlala ixatyiswa ngaphezu koxanduva oluhlangeneyo. ukulwa.Ukuba nantoni na, urhulumente waseTshayina unamandla ngakumbi kunangaphambili, kwaye uqoqosho lwelizwe luhamba ngokugqithiseleyo kwaye lunokugqithisa i-United States kwisithuba seminyaka elishumi, ngokutsho kweLondon Centre for Economics and Business Research.Kule meko, ingcamango yenkululeko. ukuba akukho mntu uphulaphuleyo kuba nethoni emnyama: Ngaba kungenxa yokuba akukhathaliseki ukuba abantu bathini? Kuba akukho nto iza kutshintsha?
Eyona teahouse intle endayindwendwela eShanghai yayingeyondlu yeti yokwenyani konke konke. Ifumaneka kwindawo eyayisakuba yiConcession yaseFransi, le dilesi isecaleni lesitrato, imiyalelo ifumaneka kuphela xa ubhukishwa. Nangona uLoh wayekho ngaphambili, akazange ayifumane. ekuqaleni; sangena ngomnyango omnye, emva koko omnye, saza saphela kwigumbi kwindawo yokuhlala yabucala.Le yiWanling Tea House, apho uCai Wanling, inkosi yeti evela kwisixeko saseAnxi kwiphondo elikumzantsi-mpuma weFujian (ummandla udume ngeti oolong), yongamela oko kwaziwa ngokuba nguMsitho weTi waseTshayina.
Ngezixhobo zayo ezibuthathaka kunye nezandla ezicacileyo, umsitho weti waseTshayina, umsitho weti, uhlala uthathwa njengesithethe sakudala, kodwa njengoko umbhali-mbali uLawrence Zhang ebhalile, kutsha nje, kunye nemvelaphi yasekhaya. Isiko leti yeKung Fu, kude kube sekupheleni kweminyaka yee-1970s, ubukhulu becala lalingaziwa eChina ngaphandle kweChaozhou kumazantsi mpuma eTshayina. Nangona ukusela iti yaseTshayina kunesithethe eside sokuxabisa imfundo, ayibhalwanga, kwaye uZhang ukholelwa ukuba ukuzalwa kweKung Fu yantlandlolo. iti ayinanto yakwenza nentsingiselo ethile yefilosofi.Yafika kamva, ngokuyinxenye iphefumlelwe ngumsitho weti waseJapan, inguqulelo engqongqo yomsitho weti waseJapan ogxile kwiti enomphunga wegqabi elipheleleyo kuneti engumgubo kunye ne-whisked.
Xa uCai eqala, umbuzo wokuba ingaba i-tea art yayindala okanye intsha yaba yinto engenamsebenzi.Into awayenzayo yayikukunikela ingqalelo esondeleyo, enciphisa umbono wam kwezi zinto zimbalwa zidweliswe etafileni: i-gaiwan gaiwan, isiciko esifuzisela izulu, Isosi emele umhlaba, kwaye umzimba uyisiseti yeti ekuxoxwa ngayo phakathi kwabo; "indebe yobulungisa", indebe yobulungisa , ibekwe kwi-angle ye-45-degree kwi-gaiwan, apho iti igalelwa khona, emva koko indebe yendwendwe nganye, ngoko bonke baya kufumana - njengesenzo esilungileyo - amandla eti afanayo; iTowel encinci esongelweyo, ichitheke.
Uyawazi umhla wokuvuna weti yakhe nganye. Apha, iti ye-oolong ngo-Okthobha 4, 2019; apho, iti emhlophe ngoMatshi 29, 2016. Wahlala nkqo njenge-ballerina.Ngaphambi kokwenza iti, wabeka amaqabunga eti kwi-gaiwan, wavala isiciko waza wasishukumisa ngobunono, emva koko wasiphakamisa ngobunono isiciko waza waphefumlela ivumba elimnandi. Icandelo ngalinye - i-gaiwan, indebe ye-Gongdao, ikomityi yeplanga efakwe kwi-oven ye-400 ubudala - ishushu ngethontsi lamanzi ashushu kwaye igalelwe kwisitya esisecaleni. iti yeceramic ngenxa yokuba imathiriyeli ayichaphazeli incasa, kwaye ibilisa amanzi kube kanye okanye kabini “ukugcina amanzi ephila,” utshilo.
Iti nganye inexesha elithile lokusela, echanekileyo ukuya kweyesibini, kodwa ayinalo iwotshi yokubhekisela. Ngelixa iti yayisenziwa, ndahlala naye ndathula.Ngummangaliso lo: ukukhumbula indlela yokuxela ixesha ngokulula ngokubakho, ukubamba iti. imizuzwana emzimbeni wakho, isekhondi ngalinye uzinzile kwaye unzima ngendlela engaqhelekanga. Asilibaleki ixesha, kodwa ngandlela ithile siyakwazi oko. Wayenokuninzi afuna ukundixelela kona – indlela ebelicekeceke ngayo ukufakwa kokuqala, okwesibini kuqatha; indlela iti epholile ngayo ngokukhawuleza kwikomityi yodongwe; indlela awayethanda ngayo ukusela iti ye-oolong emnyama ngemini yemvula - ndangqiyama kwaye ndiphulaphule , ndilahlekile kwihlabathi langaphandle ixesha elithile.
Ixesha lokuposa: Jan-17-2022
