Kubva kare, nzvimbo idzi dzakafanana nemabhawa epopulist.Kudzokorora kwemazuva ano kunobvumira kudzoka kwega muguta risina kuvanzika - pakati pevasingazivi.
Imba yakavanzika mukati mebazi reShanghai Silver Jubilee Mini Teahouse Chain, uko vashanyi vanogona kunakidzwa neshizha uye tii yehupfu uye tuzvidyiro mune zvakajairika.Credit…Josh Robenstone
Vakadzi vanotamba makadhi, vanonangana zvine hungwaru, vasina gwapa. Kusvuta fodya. Takanga tiri mudunhu reHuangpu riri nechepakati peShangai, guta rine vanhu vanosvika mamiriyoni makumi maviri nemashanu, asi vakadzi vatanhatu ndivo chete vamwe vatengi vandakaona paDehe Teahouse, Hanzo pauriri hwechipiri. imba yekurovedza muviri.
NdiGumiguru 2019, uye mwedzi inodarika miviri isati yatanga kutaurwa nyaya yepasi rose yekoronavirus. Ndakanga ndisina masiki mumugwagwa wepasi pevhu, ndichirwa nevanhu vandisingazivi. Imba yetii, ipapo, yakanga iri zororo kubva kuboka: Ndakapinda nepagedhi rebwe ndakarindwa neshumba dzain'un'una, ndokuyambuka zambuko pfupi pamusoro pekurara koi mudziva kuenda kune mausoleum-yakafanana. uriri hwekutsvaira pamusoro Pane mataira matema anopenya uye marambi matsvuku ari kudonha nemupendero.Muperekedzi wangu, Ashley Loh weUnTour Food Tours, akanga afanoronga kuti aite nguva, uye takavanda parutivi perimita, nemaketeni akasungirirwa mukona. Zvakanga zviri pachena kuti takanga tiri pano, asi mushure mokurayira, takaverevedza, takapfuura madzimai achipepeta makadhi avo, kuenda kubhaffet - ndiro dzinopisa dzakazadzwa neporridge, muto wechibage unotapira, taro yakabikwa uye borscht Muto, wakabva pa borscht waunzwa. kuguta nevatorwa veRussia mushure meGumiguru Revolution ya1917.
Girazi refu rakaiswa pamberi pangu, aquarium inogarwa neanemone: chrysanthemum yakadururwa kubva pakakwirira nemvura inopisa, ichigadzira resinous pale ale iyo inonhuwira zviri nani kupfuura iyo Kuravira kwakasimba.Inoyevedza, uye zvinoshamisa zvisingaite. , zvinenge zvakaitika netsaona - kuzorora kamwe kamwe kubva kuguta rinopfuurira; kutsvaga nzvimbo yekuvanda iri pachena munyika inopesana nepfungwa yekuvanzika kwemunhu; kupesana kwekuva toga, tiri pamwe chete nevamwe, tose takazvipira kutevera nguva ino inopfuura. Ndakafunga kuti ndakanga ndiri pano kuti ndiwane tii pane imwe imba yetii, asi zvakazoitika kuti ndiri kutsvaga chimwe chinhu zvachose. Ndanga ndisati ndaziva kuti nzvimbo dzakaita seidzi dzaizovharwa pasi rose mumwedzi mishomanana uye nyika yangu yaizoderera kusvika kumiganhu yemba yangu. Handisati ndaziva kuti ndichazvisuwa zvakadii.
Tii ndeyekare uye inokosha kuChina.Mafossils anobva kupurovhinzi yeYunnan kumaodzanyemba kwakadziva kumadokero kwenyika anoratidza kuvepo kweanobvira akananga tateguru wemuti wetii makore 35 miriyoni apfuura. -8 mazana emakore BC; zvakasara zvetii zvakawanikwa kubva muguva ramambo akafa muna 141 BC; kutaurwa kwekutanga kwekunwa tii paruzhinji kunoonekwa muna 7 AD kusvika kuTang Dynasty muzana ramakore rechigumi, asi tsika yetehouse yaive ichangoburwa, sekunyora kwemunyori wenhoroondo Wang Di muTeahouses: Bhizinesi Diki, Tsika Yemazuva ese, uye Zvematongerwo enyika.Chengdu, 1900 -1950q (2008). Yakabva kumapati etii ezvidzidzo uye nevagari vemumugwagwa ptiger stovesq, iyo yaitengesa mvura inopisa yekubika tii kumba, ichibva yatanga kugadzira zvituru zvekuti vatengi vagare.
Kumadokero, dzimba dzetii dzinowanzo fungidzirwa senzvimbo isingaremekedzi yerunyararo uye runyararo, ine stylized action ballet inowedzera mystique mukugadzira tii nekunwa, inokurudzira mukati uye kuzvidzora. semisiyano pakati peimba yekuJapan yetii, nzvimbo yakanyatsogadzirwa maererano nekunaka kwakasimba kwemutambo wetii, kwete kungotandara sezvairi unyanzvi, uye dzimba dzeTea ndimo umo ma geisha anovaraidza vatengi vavo.) kusimuka kwetii imba tsika jzvichida yakanyatso kuratidzwa mukutanga kwezana ramakore rechi20 muChengdu, maodzanyemba kwakadziva kumadokero kweSichuan provincejis zvichisundwa nechishuwo chekubatana kwevanhu. vaisafanira kuungana mumisha; pachinzvimbo, vaigara padyo neminda yavo munzvimbo dzakapararira, dzakaganhurana, dzinoda nzvimbo dzekusangana sedzimba dzetii senzvimbo dzemagariro uye dzekutengeserana dzinoenderana neGreek Agora, Italy Square uye Arabian Souks.
Kuvanhu veChengdu, dzimba dzetii chikamu chinokosha chehupenyu hwezuva nezuva. Muna 1909, kwaiva nedzimba dzetii 454 mumigwagwa yeguta 516. Pavanouraya nguva, vatengi vanouya neshiri dzavo dzinovaraidza uye dzinoturika matanga kubva munzeve. , kuvheyesa maturusi ekuvhiya.Mataira eMahjong akatsemuka; vatauri vengano, dzimwe nguva vakashata, vaikwezva mhomho yavapfumi navarombo; ad hoc "tea house vezvematongerwo enyika" vakatoshevedzera kuti "Musakurukure nyaya dzehurumende" pasi peyambiro yebhena, vezvitoro Vachitumira mashoko akadai, ityai zviremera zvakasvinurira nguva dzose.Muchidimbu, nzvimbo idzi hadzisi dzekufungisisa, nzvimbo dzisingawanzoitiki. teahouse yega yega yaive yakazara, q Wang akataura mupepeti uye mudzidzisi Shu Xincheng muChengdu kuma1920s.
Senzvimbo inobatanidza veruzhinji neyepachivande, teahouse inobvumira vasingazivi kuti vabatane uye vachinjane mazano nenzira yakasununguka - kufamba kwakasimba munharaunda inoisa mhuri sechikamu chikuru chesocial uye uko zvizvarwa zvakawanda zvinogovana chiitiko chepamba. Murusununguko urwu, dzimba dzetii dzine zvisungo zveropa kudzimba dzekofi muzana ramakore rechi 17 nerechi 18 muEurope, iyo muzivi weGermany uye nyanzvi yezvemagariro evanhu Jȹrgen Habermas anorumbidza nekutyora mitemo yaimboitwa nechechi. Vamwe "vanotsanangura monopoly", nokudaro vachibatsira kubereka Chiedza uye nyika.
China inogona kusamboziva nezve 'nyika-society duality' inoonekwa kuMadokero, sekunyora kwemunyori wenhoroondo Huang Zhongzheng mu 'China's 'Public Domain'/'Civil Society'?' (1993) .Asi munyori wenhoroondo Qin Shao anotenda kuti dzimba dzokutanga dzetii, sema microcosms emaguta nemisha, dzakanga dzichine simba rokupandukira.Mushure mekudonha kweQing Dynasty muna 1912, mumwe munhu aisimuka, akarerekera kuMadokero etsika dzechivanhu akaona dzimba dzetii senzvimbo ine ngozi yekuberekera. nokuda kwevafi vekare uye "huori hwetsika nenyonganyonga yemagariro," Shao akanyora mune imwe rondedzero ya1998 j muchidimbu nekuti teahouses inobvumira chinyararire kubhejera, chipfambi uye kuimba nziyo dzinonyadzisira, q asiwo nekuti kuzorora pachako kunongoerekana kwaonekwa sekutyisidzira kukubudirira, kuzvidza zvemazuva ano uye chimiro chitsva chezuva rebasa. Wang akatora sirogani yepakutanga kwezana remakore rechi20: “Usapinda muimba yetii, usaone mitambo yemuno; kungorima minda nokurima mupunga.”
Sezvo simba rehurumende rakabatanidzwa pasi pemutungamiri weCommunist Party Mao Zedong, hupenyu hweveruzhinji hauna kungodzikiswa, asi hwakasarudzwa kuburikidza nemisangano mizhinji uye propaganda yenzvimbo dzese. Munguva yeCultural Revolution ye1960s ne1970s, teahouse zhinji dzakavharwa kana izwi rakanzwika rinogona kushorwa. Yakanga isiri iyo nguva yepost-Mao iyo yakatanga mukupera kwema1970 iyo tsika yakamutswa sezvo hurumende yakasunungura kubata kwayo kune yakazvimirira uye yakatendeukira kune yakanakira "socialist musika hupfumi" hwakafambiswa nemutungamiri panguva iyoyo Deng Xiaoping. .Sezvo mipimo yekurarama yakavandudzwa, ndozvakaitawo fungidziro yakarangarirwa kuva ine ngozi uye yakanangana nokuparadza tsika dzekare, tsika, tsika, uye pfungwa naMaoos shabby movementjas rutivi rwekusimbisazve kuzivikanwa kwetsika pakati pokusagadzikana kwoupfumi hweChinaos. nzira.Anthropologist Zhang Jinghong akanyora mu Pu-erh Tea: Ancient Caravans and Urban Fashion (2014), kukurumidza kushanduka kuva simba repasi rose.Kunwa tii pamba uye paruzhinji kwave kuda kuita chiito chenyika, chisimbiso chekuva China.
MuShanghai - China yakanyanya kutekinoroji megacity - denda risati raitika, Dehe akanzwa kudzvinyirirwa, kure kure nevakatangira veChengdu. Kune nzvimbo dzakabatikana dzeguta, pamwe zvakanyanya kukosha vashanyi vakakomberedzwa neHuxinting Teahouse, imba yakanaka inokwira pamusoro peLotus Lake. .Asi pakati pezviuru zveguta redzimba dzetii, mumwe wanguard mutsva anokurudzira kushanduka kubva mukuitwa kweruzhinji kuenda pakuvanza nekunatsiridzwa, kungave kuri muzvirongwa zvine fenicha yekare, seDehe, kana kuziva avant-garde The aesthetic style, seTingtai Teahouse, mu M50 art district yePutuo yaimbova maindasitiri, makamuri ayo emakamuri epachivande akaiswa mumabhokisi esimbi asina tsvina. Mune dzimwe nzvimbo, varaki veti vanogadzira mhando dzemhando yepamusoro dzeIcelandic Pu'er, Tieguanyin Oolong, uye Dianhong (tii nhema kubva maodzanyemba kwakadziva kumadokero kweChina mudunhu reYunnan) patafura.Kuchengetedzwa kunowanzodikanwa uye miganhu yenguva inoiswa kuitira kuti vatengi vasanonoka.Kutiza, asi kwete kubva panguva.
Munzvero ya1980 pamusoro pokushandiswa kwenzvimbo dzavose muNew York City, “The Social Life of Small Urban Spaces,” mutori wenhau wokuAmerica nomurongi wezvirongwa zvomumadhorobha William H. White akacherekedza kuti nepo vanhu “vachiti kufuratira zvose,” ufakazi hunokarakadza. kuti vainyatsokwezvwa kunzvimbo dzine vanhu vakawanda: “Zvinoita sokuti vamwe vanhu ndivo vanonyanya kukwezva vanhu.” Nekudaro, mune dzimwe teahouses dzandakashanyira naLoh (uye gare gare nemunyori wezvekudya Crystall Mo), kusangana pakati pevasingazivi kwakachengetedzwa zvishoma. sekuva mukirabhu yakavanzika; pane imwe nguva, bazi reSilver Creek Diki Chain paYuqing Road mune yaimbove French Concession, hapana mavanga kubva kunze, angori mutsara wechubby, expressionless monk zvidhori. pamadziro.Pakupinda, Loh akadzvanya musoro wechidhori chechipiri kurudyi, uye apo gonhi rakazaruka, takakwira masitepisi, takapfuura mhute yaivhuvhuta. chete nematombo.
Zvitoro zvekofi zvino zvava vakwikwidzi vavojincluding the 30,000-square-foot-foot Starbucks Reserve Roastery storefront muShanghaios Jingoan district, iyo yakavhurwa muna 2017jand teahouses vakatofanira kugadzirisa.Vamwe vanoshandisa mukati mavo kukwezva chizvarwa chechidiki; vamwe vanoshandisa tii senzvimbo, mhemberero dzinoda vashandi vane hunyanzvi, kana sechinhu cheumbozha chine mitengo inokwira kusvika kuzviuru zveyuan papoto, yakaenzana nemazana emadhora Dollar.Kudzokororwa kwemazuva ano hakuenderane nemuenzaniso wekare weicho Shaw. inotsanangura se "imwe yenzvimbo dzinotengwa neruzhinji dzeruzhinji," uye zvakaoma kune vekunze kuti vataure kuti wakawanda sei wemweya wetii wekare wavakachengeta, uko "vanhuwo zvavo" vanogona makuhwa uye kutaura Mafungiro, "Kusunungura Manzwiro Anoparadza Kuti Apindure. kuKuchinja Kwemagariro” vasingatyi migumisiro kana kupindira kwehurumende. Pane kudaro, vanoita sevari kuchengeta rudzi rwakasiyana rwechishuvo, vachifungidzira nguva apo nyika yakanga isinganyanyi kudiwa kana kuti kuvharika zviri nyore. Pamwe kuzvipira hakusi kubatanidzwa, asi zvakapesana: retreat.
Nhasi, Twitter neFacebook zvine nharo hofori chaiyo teahouses, zvirinani kune avo vasina kuvharirwa mukana kwavari.Zvisinei, ese akavharirwa neGreat Firewall mukati meChina, uye yavo yepedyo social media platform Weibo uye meseji app WeChat inotariswa zvakanyanya ne state.Zvisinei, ruzivo ruchiri kuwanikwa kune vanoritsvaga.Mukati menguva diki yangu muShanghai, vamwe vagari veko vakandiudza nezve Hong Kong pro-democracy kuratidzira kwakatanga kutanga kwegore riya (kunotsanangurwa ne mainland state media sebasa remamwe matsotsi akaiswa muuranda. nevamiriri vedzimwe nyika), uye maUighurs Dambudziko revaUighurs, vashoma vanotaura chiTurkic uye vazhinji vechiMuslim kumadokero kweChina, vanopfuura miriyoni vakavharirwa mumisasa yekudzidzira patsva iyo hurumende inoti inofanirwa kurwisa mhirizhonga yechiIslam. paruzhinji uye hapana anoita seari kuteerera. Asizve, ndini ani?
Makore maviri zvichienda mberi, China yakakunda zvakanyanya Covid-19 (kubva kuDelta mutsauko mukupera kwaChikunguru kusvika pakupera kwaNyamavhuvhu) kuburikidza nemitemo yakasimba yemasiki uye tekinoroji yekutarisisa tekinoroji, nepo kuMadokero rusununguko rwemunhu runowanzo kukosheswa pamusoro pebasa rakaungana. Kana pane chimwe chinhu, hurumende yeChina yakatosimba kudarika kare, uye hupfumi hwenyika hwakanyanyisa uye hunogona kukunda United States mukati memakore gumi, maererano neLondon Center for Economics and Business Research.Panyaya iyi, pfungwa yekusununguka. kuti hapana ari kuteerera zvinotora inzwi rakasviba: Imhaka yokuti hazvina basa nezvinotaurwa nevanhu here? Nokuti hapana chichachinja?
Imba yetii yakanakisa yandakashanyira kuShanghai yaisava imba yeti chaiyo zvachose.Iri munzvimbo yaimbove French Concession, kero iyi iri parutivi rwemugwagwa, nzira dzinowanikwa chete pakubhuroka.Kunyangwe Loh akambovapo, haana kuiwana. pakutanga; takapfuura nepasuo rimwe chete, ndokuzopedzisira tapinda mune imwe kamuri mune imwe imba yekugara yega. Iyi iWanling Tea House, uko Cai Wanling, nyanzvi yetii kubva kuguta reAnxi riri kumaodzanyemba kwakadziva kumabvazuva kwepurovhinzi yeFujian (nharaunda inozivikanwa neoolong tii), akatungamirira yakazozivikanwa seChinese Tea Ceremony.
Nematurusi ayo akapfava uye majeti akaomesesa, mhemberero yetii yeChinese, mhemberero yetii, inowanzoonekwa setsika yechinyakare, asi sezvakanyorwa nemunyori wenhoroondo Lawrence Zhang, ichangoburwa, nekwakabva munharaunda. Tsika yeKung Fu yetii, kusvika mukupera kwema1970, yakanga isingazivikanwe kuChina kunze kweChaozhou kumaodzanyemba kwakadziva kumabvazuva kweChina.Kunyangwe kunwa tii kweChinese kune tsika refu yekutenda mudzidzo, haina kunyorwa, uye Zhang anotenda kuti kutanga kweKung Fu. tii haina chekuita nechirevo chehuzivi chaihwo. Yakauya gare gare, yafemerwa nemhemberero yetii yekuJapan, vhezheni isinganyanyi kuomesesa yemhemberero yetii yekuJapan yakanangana neshizha rose rakaputirwa tii pane yehupfu uye newhisked tii.
Cai paakatanga, mubvunzo wekuti unyanzvi hwetii hwaive hwekare here kana hutsva hwakava husina basa.Zvaakaita kwaiva kunyatsoteerera, achidzikisa chiono changu kune izvi zvishoma zvinhu zvakarongwa patafura: gaiwan gaiwan, chivharo chinofananidzira denga, the sosi inomiririra nyika, uye muviri uri tii seti inotaurirana pakati pavo; "mukombe wekururamisira", mukombe wekururamisira , wakaiswa pamakona e45-degree kune gaiwan, umo tii inodururwa, ipapo mukombe wemuenzi wega wega, saka vose vachagamuchira - sechiito chakanaka - simba rimwechete reti; Tauro diki rakapetwa, dab spill.
Anoziva zuva rekukohwa retii yake yega yega. Pano, oolong tii musi wa4 Gumiguru 2019; ikoko, white tea musi waMarch 29, 2016.Akagara zvakanaka sebharina.Asati agadzira tii, akaisa mashizha etii mugaiwan, akavhara chivharo ndokuchizunza zvinyoro nyoro, ndokusimudza chivharo zvinyoronyoro ndokufuridzira kunhuhwirira. Chikamu chimwe nechimwe - gaiwan, mukombe weGongdao, mukombe wehuni wakapiswa mumoto wemakore 400 - inopisa nedonhwe remvura inopisa uye inodururwa mundiro yepadivi. ceramic teapot nekuti iyo haikanganisi kuravira, uye inongofashaidza mvura kamwe chete kana kaviri “kuti mvura irambe iri mhenyu,” anodaro.
Tii imwe neimwe ine nguva yekubikirwa, yakananga kune yechipiri, asi haana wachi. Tii payaibikwa, ndakagara naye ndakanyarara. Ndochishamiso ichi: kurangarira kutaura nguva nekungovapo, kubata masekondi emuviri wako, sekondi yega yega yakatsiga uye inorema zvisingaite. Hatisi kutiza nguva, asi neimwe nzira tinoigona. Aive nezvakawanda zvekundiudza - kuti kupinza kwekutanga kwaive kwakapfava sei, kwechipiri kwakanyanya; kuti tii yakatonhora sei nokukurumidza mukapu yevhu; kuti aifarira sei kunwa black oolong tea pazuva remvura - Ndakasendamira uye ndakateerera, ndakarasika munyika yekunze kwechinguva.
Nguva yekutumira: Jan-17-2022
