Amateka, iyi myanya isa nababari ba populiste. Itera igezweho yemerera umwiherero wihariye mumujyi udafite ubuzima bwite - mubatazi.
Icyumba cyiherereye mu ishami rya Shanghai Silver Yubile Mini Teahouse Chain, aho abashyitsi bashobora kwishimira icyayi kibabi hamwe nifu yicyayi hamwe nudukoryo ahantu hasanzwe. Inguzanyo… Josh Robenstone
Abagore bakina amakarita, bahangane na stratégie, nta nenge. Umwotsi uva mu itabi. Twari mu karere ka Huangpu gaherereye mu mujyi wa Shanghai rwagati, umujyi utuwe n'abantu bagera kuri miliyoni 25 ariko abagore batandatu ni bo bandi bakiriya nabonye i Dehe Teahouse, Hanzo mu igorofa rya kabiri rya imyitozo ngororamubiri.
Ni Ukwakira 2019, kandi amezi arenga abiri mbere yuko inkuru ya mbere ku isi ivugwa ku gitabo cyitwa coronavirus. Ahantu hateranira abantu hagumye hafunguye kandi huzuye ibintu; Nari nambaye mask muri metero, ndwana nabanyamahanga. Icyayi rero, cyari ikiruhuko cyabantu benshi: Ninjiye mu irembo ryamabuye ririnzwe nintare zinyeganyega, hanyuma nambuka ikiraro kigufi hejuru ya dozing koi mu cyuzi njya kuri mawariya. gukubura hasi hejuru Hano hari amabati yumukara yaka cyane n'amatara atukura atonyanga impande zose. Umuyobozi wanjye, Ashley Loh wo muri UnTour Food Tours, yari yarahamagaye mbere kugirango dusabe gahunda, maze duhungira hafi ya perimetero, hamwe nudido twiziritse mu mfuruka.Tea wasangaga ibyo twari turi hano, ariko tumaze gutumiza, twinjiye, tunyura hejuru yabategarugori batonesha amakarita yabo, kuri buffet - amasahani ashyushye yuzuye poroji, isupu y'ibigori nziza, taro hamwe na borscht Isupu, ishingiye kuri borscht yazanye mu mujyi n'abimukira b'Abarusiya nyuma ya Revolution yo mu Kwakira 1917.
Ikirahure kirekire cyashyizwe imbere yanjye, aquarium ituwe na anemone: chrysanthemum yasutswe mu burebure n'amazi ashyushye, itanga aleine pale ale ihumura neza kurenza uburyohe burakomeye.Ni byiza, kandi bidasanzwe bidakenewe. , uburambe bwimpanuka - kuruhuka gutunguranye kuva mumujyi ukomeje; gushakisha ahantu hihishe bigaragara mugihugu kinyuranyije nigitekerezo cyibanga bwite; kwivuguruza kwihererana, mugihe turi kumwe nabandi, twese twiyemeje gukurikirana iki gihe gito.Natekereje ko ndi hano icyayi murugo rwicyayi, ariko biragaragara ko nashakaga ikindi kintu rwose.Ntabwo nari nzi ko ibibuga nkibi byahagarara kwisi yose mumezi make isi yanjye ikagabanuka kumupaka wurugo rwanjye.Ntabwo nzi umubare ngiye kubura ibi.
Icyayi ni icya kera kandi twavuga ko ari ingenzi cyane ku bitekerezo by’Ubushinwa. -Ibinyejana 8 mbere ya Yesu; ibisigazwa by'icyayi byabonetse mu mva y'umwami w'abami wapfuye mu 141 mbere ya Yesu; kuvuga bwa mbere kunywa icyayi mu ruhame bigaragara mu 7 nyuma ya AD ku ngoma ya Tang mu kinyejana cya cumi, ariko umuco w'icyayi wari iterambere rya vuba aha, nk'uko umuhanga mu by'amateka Wang Di yanditse mu cyayi: Ubucuruzi buciriritse, Umuco wa buri munsi, na Politiki rusange.Chengdu, 1900 -1950q (2008). Byaturutse mu birori byicyayi byamasomo no mumihanda ya gisivili ptiger stovesq, yagurishaga amazi ashyushye yo gukora icyayi murugo, hanyuma itangira gushiraho intebe kubakiriya batinda.
Mu Burengerazuba, amazu yicyayi akunze gutekerezwa nka oasisi idasanzwe yumutuzo numutuzo, hamwe na ballet yibikorwa byongeweho amayobera mugukora icyayi no kunywa, bitera imbere no kwigaragaza. (Iyi fantasy yirengagije itandukaniro riri hagati yUbushinwa nu Buyapani, ndetse nk'itandukaniro riri hagati yicyumba cyicyayi cyabayapani, umwanya wateguwe byumwihariko ukurikije ubwiza bukomeye bwimihango yicyayi, ntabwo ari imyidagaduro cyane kuko ari ubuhanzi, kandi amazu yicyayi niho geisha zishimisha abakiriya babo.) Ariko mubushinwa, the kuzamuka k'umuco w'icyayi umuco birashoboka cyane ko wagaragaye cyane mu ntangiriro z'ikinyejana cya 20 i Chengdu, mu majyepfo y'uburengerazuba bw'intara ya Sichuan uterwa n'icyifuzo cyo guhuza abantu. Kugereranya akarere ka geografiya, ubutaka burumbuka, ikirere cyoroheje, hamwe na gahunda yo kuhira imyaka yo mu kibaya cya Chengdu bivuze ko abahinzi ntiyagombaga gukoranira mu midugudu; Ahubwo, babaga hafi yimirima yabo mumiturire itatanye, yitaruye igice, isaba ahantu hateranira nkicyayi nkibibuga byubucuruzi nubucuruzi bihuye na Agora yubugereki, Square yabataliyani na Souks yabarabu.
Kubantu ba Chengdu, icyayi nikintu cyingenzi mubuzima bwa buri munsi.Mu 1909, hari icyayi 454 mumihanda 516 yumujyi.Nkuko bica igihe, abakiriya bazana inyoni zabo zitunzwe no kumanika akazu kumatwi. , kuzunguza ibikoresho byo kubaga igice. Amabati ya majjong yacitse; abavuga inkuru, rimwe na rimwe ni ibiteye isoni, bakurura imbaga y'abakire n'abakene; ad hoc “abanyapolitiki bo mu cyumba cy'icyayi” ndetse basakuza bati: "Ntuganire ku bibazo bya leta" baburira banneri, abadandaza Bandika ayo magambo, batinya abategetsi bahora ari maso. Muri make, ibibanza ntibishobora gutekereza cyane, ahantu hadasanzwe.p Kuva izuba rirashe kugeza izuba rirenze, buri cyayi cyari cyuzuye, q Wang yasubiyemo umwanditsi akaba n'umurezi Shu Xincheng i Chengdu mu myaka ya za 1920. ”Akenshi nta hantu ho kwicara.”
Numwanya uhuza rubanda n’abikorera ku giti cyabo, icyayi cyemerera abanyamahanga kwishora no kungurana ibitekerezo muburyo bwisanzuye - intambwe ishimishije muri societe itunga umuryango nkigice nyamukuru kandi aho ibisekuruza byinshi bisangira uburambe murugo. Muri ubwo bwisanzure, icyayi gifitanye isano n’amaraso n’ikawa mu kinyejana cya 17 na 18 cy’Uburayi, umuhanga mu bya filozofiya w’Abadage akaba n’umuhanga mu by'imibereho y'abantu witwa Jȹrgen Habermas avuga ko yarenze ku mategeko yari afite mbere y’iryo torero. Bamwe "basobanura monopole", bityo bagafasha kubyara Kumurikirwa na leta.
Ubushinwa ntibushobora na rimwe guhuza na 'leta-sosiyete ebyiri' zigaragara mu Burengerazuba, nk'uko umuhanga mu by'amateka Huang Zhongzheng yanditse mu gitabo cyitwa 'Ubushinwa rusange' / 'Sosiyete sivile'? ' . ku bapfa bapfuye kera na "ruswa ishingiye ku myifatire n'akaduruvayo mu mibereho," Shao yanditse mu nyandiko ya j igice cya 1998 kubera ko icyayi cyemerera mu buryo butuje gukina urusimbi, uburaya no guhimba indirimbo ziteye isoni, q ariko nanone kubera ko imyidagaduro ubwayo ibonwa ko ibangamiye umusaruro, kwanga ibigezweho n'imiterere mishya y'umunsi w'akazi.Wang yasubiyemo interuro yo mu ntangiriro z'ikinyejana cya 20: “Ntukajye mu cyayi, ntukarebe amakinamico yaho; guhinga imirima no guhinga umuceri. ”
Ubwo imbaraga za leta zashimangirwaga n’umuyobozi w’ishyaka rya gikomunisiti Mao Zedong, ubuzima rusange ntabwo bwagabanijwe gusa, ahubwo bwafatanyaga mu myigaragambyo rusange no kwamamaza hose. Mu gihe cy’impinduramatwara y’umuco yo mu myaka ya za 1960 na 1970, icyayi kinini cyarafunzwe igihe ijambo ryumvaga rishobora kwamaganwa. Igihe cya nyuma ya Mao cyatangiye mu mpera z'imyaka ya za 70, ni bwo umuco wongeye kugarukwaho mu gihe guverinoma yarekuye abikorera ku giti cyabo maze ihindukirira icyifuzo cy’ubukungu bw’isoko ry’abasosiyalisiti ryatejwe imbere n’umuyobozi icyo gihe, Deng Xiaoping. .Nkuko imibereho yateye imbere, niko nostalgiajonce yabonaga ko iteje akaga kandi igamije gusenya imigenzo ya kera, imico, ingeso, n'ibitekerezo byakozwe na Maoos shabby movementjas igice cyo kwemeza indangamuntu mu gihe ubukungu bw’ubushinwa bwifashe nabi. inzira. Umuhanga mu bumenyi bw'ikiremwa muntu Zhang Jinghong yanditse mu cyayi cya Pu-erh: Caravans ya kera na Urban Fashion (2014), ihinduka ryihuse mu bihugu by’isi yose. Kunywa icyayi mu rugo no mu ruhame byahindutse igikorwa cyo gukunda igihugu, kwemeza ko ari Abashinwa.
Muri Shanghai - Ubushinwa bwateye imbere mu buhanga mu buhanga - mbere y’icyorezo, Dehe yumvise akandamijwe, kure cyane y’abayibanjirije ba Chengdu.Hariho uduce twinshi two mu mujyi, ahari cyane cyane icyayi cya Huxinting cyugarijwe n’ubukerarugendo, pavilion nziza cyane hejuru y’ikiyaga cya Lotus .Ariko mu bihumbi by'icyayi byo muri uyu mujyi, vanguard nshya irasaba ko abantu bahinduka bakava mu gusezerana kwa populiste bakajya guhisha no gutunganywa, haba mu bikoresho birimo ibikoresho bya kera, nka Dehe, cyangwa avant-garde babishaka Uburyo bwiza, nka Tingtai Teahouse, muri akarere ka M50 gaherereye mu gace ka Putuo kahoze ari inganda, ibice byibyumba byigenga byashyizwe mu dusanduku twinshi tw’ibyuma bitagira umwanda. Mu turere tumwe na tumwe, abayi icyayi bategura ubwoko buhenze cyane bwa Pu'er yo muri Islande, Tieguanyin Oolong, na Dianhong (icyayi cyirabura kiva muri intara y’amajyepfo yuburengerazuba bwintara ya Yunnan) kumeza.Ibisabwa akenshi bisabwa kandi hashyirwaho igihe ntarengwa kugirango abakiriya batatinda cyane.Ni uguhunga, ariko ntabwo biva mugihe.
Mu bushakashatsi bwakozwe mu 1980 ku mikoreshereze y’ahantu hahurira abantu benshi mu Mujyi wa New York, “Ubuzima bw’imibereho y’ahantu hato ho mu mijyi,” umunyamakuru w’umunyamerika akaba n’umushinga w’imijyi, William H. White, yavuze ko mu gihe abantu “bavuga ko bagomba kubitandukanya na byo.” ko mu byukuri bakwega ahantu hahuze: “Birasa nkaho abandi bantu bakurura abantu cyane.” Ariko, mubindi byayi nasuye hamwe na Loh (hanyuma nyuma numwanditsi wibiribwa Crystall Mo), guhura hagati yabatazi byabitswe byibuze.Abagabo bambaye amakositimu, bazunguza amavarisi, baburirwa mubyumba byubwenge, bifunze.Hariho aura ya exclusivite, nko kuba muri club yigenga; igihe kimwe, ishami ryurunigi ruto rwa Silver Creek kumuhanda wa Yuqing ahahoze hitwa Concession yubufaransa, nta kimenyetso cyaturutse hanze, gusa umurongo wibicucu, udusimba twabihaye Imana. kurukuta.Mu kwinjira, Loh yakandagiye umutwe wigipupe cya kabiri iburyo, maze urugi rukinguye, twurira ingazi, tunyura hejuru yijimye. gusa mukandagira amabuye.
Amaduka yikawa ubu ni abanywanyi bayo harimo na metero kare 30.000 zububiko bwa Starbucks Reserve Roastery mu karere ka Shanghaios Jingoan, yafunguwe muri 2017jand icyayi cyagombaga kumenyera. Bamwe bakoresha imbere yabo kugirango basabe abakiri bato; abandi bakoresha icyayi nkibintu byibandwaho, imihango isanzwe isaba abimenyereza ubuhanga, cyangwa nkikintu cyiza kandi igiciro kizamuka kigera ku bihumbi byinshi kuri buri nkono, bihwanye n’amadolari y’amadorari.Ibi byerekezo bigezweho ntabwo bihuye neza nicyitegererezo cyiza cyibyo Shaw asobanura nk '“imwe mu mbuga rusange zihenze cyane,” kandi biragoye ko abantu bo hanze bavuga umubare w’imyuka ishaje y’icyayi bagumanye, aho “abantu basanzwe” bashobora gusebanya no kwerekana Igitekerezo, “Kurekura Amarangamutima Yangiza kugira ngo asubize Kuri Imibereho Myiza y'Abaturage ”badatinya ingaruka cyangwa gutabara kwa leta.Ahubwo, basa nkaho bafite ubundi bwoko bwa nostalgia, batekereza igihe isi itasabwaga cyane cyangwa gufungwa byoroshye.Birashoboka ko kwiyemeza atari ugusezerana, ahubwo ni ikinyuranyo: umwiherero.
Uyu munsi, Twitter na Facebook twavuga ko ari icyayi kinini cyane, byibuze kubatigeze babageraho.Nyamara, byombi byahagaritswe na Firewall nini imbere mubushinwa, kandi urubuga rwabo rwa hafi rwa Weibo hamwe na porogaramu yohererezanya ubutumwa WeChat ikurikiranirwa hafi na leta.Nyamara, amakuru aracyaboneka kubabishaka.Mu gihe gito namaze muri Shanghai, bamwe mubaturage bambwiye ibijyanye n'imyigaragambyo yo guharanira demokarasi ya Hong Kong yatangiye mu ntangiriro z'uwo mwaka (byasobanuwe n'ibitangazamakuru bya leta yo ku mugabane w'isi ko ari ibikorwa by'abagizi ba nabi babaye imbata. n'abakozi b'abanyamahanga), n'ukuntu ikibazo cy'Abatutsi Ikibazo cy'Abatutsi, bavuga ururimi rw'igiturukiya kandi kiganjemo abayisilamu biganjemo abayisilamu bo mu burengerazuba bw'Ubushinwa, cy’abantu barenga miliyoni bafungiye mu nkambi z’uburezi leta ivuga ko ari ngombwa mu kurwanya ubuhezanguni bwa kisilamu. Turavuga mu bwisanzure rusange kandi ntamuntu numwe usa nkuwumva.Ariko noneho nanone, Ndi nde? Gusa umukerarugendo, umuntu udafite icyo akora, arengana.
Imyaka ibiri irashize, Ubushinwa bwatsinze cyane Covid-19 (kuva mu bwoko bwa Delta mu mpera za Nyakanga kugeza mu mpera za Kanama) binyuze mu mategeko akomeye ya mask ndetse n’ikoranabuhanga rishinzwe kugenzura, mu gihe mu Burengerazuba umudendezo w’umuntu ku giti cye uhabwa agaciro cyane kubera inshingano rusange, komeza imirwano.Niba hari icyo, guverinoma y'Ubushinwa irakomeye kuruta mbere, kandi ubukungu bw'igihugu bukaba bukabije kandi bushobora kurenga Amerika mu myaka icumi ishize, nk'uko ikigo cya Londres gishinzwe ubukungu n'ubushakashatsi mu bucuruzi kibitangaza. Muri uru rubanza, igitekerezo cyo kwibohora ko ntawe uteze amatwi afata ijwi ryijimye: Biterwa nuko ntacyo bitwaye kubyo abantu bavuga? Kuberako ntakintu kizahinduka?
Icyayi cyiza cyane nasuye muri Shanghai ntabwo cyari icyayi nyacyo na gato.Biri mu cyahoze cyitwa Concession y’Abafaransa, iyi aderesi iri kumuhanda, icyerekezo kiboneka gusa kuri booking.Nubwo Loh yari ahari mbere, ntiyabasha kuyibona ubanza; twanyuze mu muryango umwe, hanyuma tujya ku rundi, turangirira mu cyumba cyo guturamo ku giti cye.Uyu ni Wanling Tea House, aho Cai Wanling, umutware w'icyayi ukomoka mu mujyi wa Anxi mu majyepfo y'uburasirazuba bw'intara ya Fujian (aka karere kazwiho icyayi cya oolong), yayoboye icyamenyekanye ku izina ry'icyayi cy'Ubushinwa.
Nibikoresho byayo byoroshye nibimenyetso birambuye, umuhango wicyayi wubushinwa, umuhango wicyayi, ufatwa nkumuhango wa kera, ariko nkuko umuhanga mu by'amateka Lawrence Zhang yanditse, ni vuba aha, ufite inkomoko yaho. Umugenzo w'icyayi wa Kung Fu, kugeza mu mpera z'imyaka ya za 70, ntiwari uzwi cyane mu Bushinwa hanze ya Chaozhou mu majyepfo y'uburasirazuba bw'Ubushinwa. Nubwo kunywa icyayi cy'Abashinwa bifite umuco gakondo wo gushima amasomo, ntabwo byemewe, kandi Zhang yemera ko kwigira umuntu kwa Kung Fu icyayi ntaho gihuriye nubusobanuro bwihariye bwa filozofiya.Byaje nyuma, igice cyatewe inkunga n umuhango wicyayi cyabayapani, verisiyo idakabije yimihango yicyayi yabayapani yibanze kumyayi yamababi yose aho kuba icyayi nifu.
Igihe Cai yatangiraga, ikibazo cyo kumenya niba ibihangano byicyayi byari bishaje cyangwa bishya byabaye ntaho bihuriye.Icyo yakoze nukwitondera cyane, nkagabanya icyerekezo cyanjye kubintu bike bitondetse kumeza: gaiwan gaiwan, umupfundikizo ushushanya ijuru, the isafuriya ihagarariye isi, n'umubiri ukaba icyayi cyashyizweho hagati yabo; “igikombe cy'ubutabera”, igikombe cy'ubutabera, gishyizwe kuri dogere 45 kuri gaiwan, aho icyayi gisukwamo, hanyuma igikombe cya buri mushyitsi, bityo bose bakakira - nkigikorwa cyiza - imbaraga zicyayi kimwe; igipande gito cya Towel, dab isuka.
Azi itariki yo gusarura buri cyayi cye. Hano, icyayi cya oolong ku ya 4 Ukwakira 2019; ngaho, icyayi cyera ku ya 29 Werurwe 2016.Yicaye neza nka ballerina. Mbere yo gukora icyayi, yashyize amababi yicyayi muri gaiwan, apfundikira umupfundikizo arawuzunguza yitonze, hanyuma azamura buhoro buhoro umupfundikizo maze ahumeka impumuro nziza. Buri kintu cyose - gaiwan, igikombe cya Gongdao, igikombe cyibiti cyarashwe mu itanura rimaze imyaka 400 - gishyuha nigitonyanga cyamazi ashyushye hanyuma kigasukwa mukibindi cyuruhande.Iyo atanga ubwoko bwicyayi burenze bumwe, ahitamo a icyayi ceramic kubera ko ibikoresho bitagira ingaruka ku buryohe, kandi biteka amazi rimwe cyangwa kabiri "kugirango amazi abeho".
Buri cyayi gifite igihe cyihariye cyo kunywa, cyuzuye kugeza ku cya kabiri, ariko nta saha yerekana. Mugihe icyayi cyatekwaga, nicaranye nawe ncecetse.Ni igitangaza: kwibuka uburyo bwo kuvuga igihe gusa uhari, ufashe u amasegonda mumubiri wawe, buri segonda itajegajega kandi iremereye bidasanzwe.Ntabwo duhunga umwanya, ariko hari ukuntu tuyitoza.Yari afite byinshi ambwira - burya infusion ya mbere yari yoroshye, iyakabiri irakomeye; burya icyayi cyakonje vuba mugikombe cyibumba; burya yakundaga kunywa icyayi cy'umukara oolong kumunsi wimvura - Nunamye ndumva, ndatakara mumahanga igihe gito.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Mutarama-17-2022
