Zakale, malowa akufanana ndi mipiringidzo ya anthu ambiri.Kubwereza kwamakono kumapangitsa kuti munthu abwerere mumzinda womwe ulibe chinsinsi - pakati pa alendo.
Chipinda chapayekha mkati mwa nthambi ya Shanghai Silver Jubilee Mini Teahouse Chain, komwe alendo amatha kusangalala ndi tiyi wamasamba ndi ufa komanso zokhwasula-khwasula m'malo wamba.Credit…Josh Robenstone
Utsi wa ndudu. Tinali m'chigawo cha Huangpu m'chigawo chapakati cha Shanghai, mzinda wa anthu pafupifupi 25 miliyoni. malo ochitira masewera olimbitsa thupi.
Ndi Okutobala 2019, ndipo patadutsa miyezi yopitilira iwiri kuti mlandu woyamba padziko lonse wapadziko lonse lapansi ukhale wodziwika bwino wa coronavirus. Ndinali wopanda chigoba munjanji yapansi panthaka, ndikumenyana ndi anthu osawadziwa. Nyumba ya tiyi, ndiye, inali mpumulo kwa khamulo: Ndinalowa pa chipata chamiyala chotetezedwa ndi mikango yolusa, kenako ndikuwoloka mlatho waufupi wodutsa koi wogona m'dziwe kupita ku mausoleum ngati mausoleum. Pansipa pali matailosi akuda onyezimira ndi nyali zofiira zodontha. zinali zodziwikiratu zomwe tinali kuno, koma titatha kuyitanitsa, tidazembera, kudutsa azimayi akukokera makhadi awo, kupita ku buffet - mbale zotentha zodzaza ndi phala, supu ya chimanga chokoma, taro yowotcha ndi borscht Msuzi, wotengera borscht wobweretsedwa. ku mzindawu ndi osamukira ku Russia pambuyo pa Revolution ya Okutobala ya 1917.
Galasi lalitali linayikidwa patsogolo panga, aquarium yokhala ndi anemone: chrysanthemum inatsanulidwa kuchokera pamwamba ndi madzi otentha, imatulutsa utomoni wotumbululuka wa ale omwe amanunkhira bwino kuposa iwo Kukoma kumakhala kolimba. , pafupifupi zochitika mwangozi - mpumulo wadzidzidzi kuchokera mumzinda womwe umapitirira; kufunafuna malo obisala odziwikiratu m'dziko lomwe likutsutsana ndi lingaliro lachinsinsi chaumwini; Zotsutsana za kukhala pawekha, pamene tikukhala pamodzi ndi ena, tonsefe tinadzipereka kuti tikwaniritse kamphindi kakang'ono kameneka. Ndinaganiza kuti ndinali kuno ku tiyi ku nyumba ya tiyi, koma ndinapeza kuti ndikuyang'ana chinthu china kwathunthu. Sindinadziwe kuti malo ngati awa adzatsekedwa padziko lonse lapansi m'miyezi ingapo ndipo dziko langa lidzacheperachepera mpaka kumalire a nyumba yanga. Sindikudziwabe kuti ndiphonya bwanji izi.
Tiyi ndi yakale kwambiri komanso yofunikira kwambiri pamalingaliro a China. Zakale za m'chigawo cha Yunnan kum'mwera chakumadzulo kwa dzikolo zikuwonetsa kukhalapo kwa kholo lotheka la mtengo wa tiyi zaka 35 miliyoni zapitazo. - zaka 8 BC; zotsalira za tiyi anapezeka kumanda a mfumu amene anamwalira mu 141 BC; Kutchulidwa koyamba kwa kumwa tiyi pagulu kumawonekera mu 7 AD mpaka mzera wa Tang m'zaka za zana la khumi, koma chikhalidwe cha teahouse chinali chitukuko chaposachedwa, monga wolemba mbiri Wang Di analemba mu Teahouses: Small Business, Everyday Culture, and Public Politics.Chengdu, 1900 -1950q (2008). Zinachokera ku maphwando a tiyi ophunzirira komanso ma ptiger stovesq a anthu wamba mumsewu, omwe amagulitsa madzi otentha opangira tiyi kunyumba, kenako adayamba kukhazikitsa zikopa kuti makasitomala achedwe.
Kumadzulo, nyumba za tiyi nthawi zambiri zimaganiziridwa kuti ndi malo abata ndi bata, okhala ndi stylized action ballet kuwonjezera mystique pakupanga tiyi ndi kumwa, kulimbikitsa mkati ndi kulingalira mozama. monga kusiyana pakati pa chipinda cha tiyi cha ku Japan, malo opangidwa mwapadera mogwirizana ndi kukongola kokhwima kwa mwambo wa tiyi, osati kungoseŵera chabe monga momwe kuli luso, ndipo nyumba za tiyi ndi kumene ma geisha amasangalatsa makasitomala awo.) kukwera kwa chikhalidwe cha nyumba ya tiyi mwina chodziwika koyambirira kwa zaka za m'ma 20 ku Chengdu, kum'mwera chakumadzulo kwa Sichuan Provincejis moyendetsedwa ndi chikhumbo chofuna kulumikizana ndi anthu. sanafunikire kusonkhana m’midzi; m'malo mwake, ankakhala pafupi ndi minda yawo m'malo amwazikana, otalikirana, omwe amafuna malo osonkhanirako ngati malo ochitira tiyi monga malo ochezera a anthu komanso amalonda ofanana ndi Greek Agora, Italy Square ndi Arabian Souks.
Kwa anthu a ku Chengdu, nyumba za tiyi ndi mbali yofunika kwambiri ya moyo watsiku ndi tsiku. , kugwedeza zida za theka-opaleshoni.Mathailosi a Mahjong akusweka; osimba nthano, nthaŵi zina otukwana, anakopa makamu a olemera ndi osauka; ad hoc "andale a nyumba ya tiyi" adafuulanso kuti "Musakambirane nkhani za boma" pansi pa chenjezo lachikwangwani, ogulitsa m'masitolo Kutumiza mawu oterowo, kuopa akuluakulu omwe ali maso nthawi zonse. Mwachidule, malowa sakhala osinkhasinkha, malo osowa. nyumba iliyonse ya tiyi inali yodzaza, q Wang anagwira mawu mkonzi ndi mphunzitsi Shu Xincheng ku Chengdu m’ma 1920.” Nthawi zambiri kulibe malo okhala.”
Monga malo omwe amagwirizanitsa anthu ndi zachinsinsi, teahouse imalola alendo kuti azichita nawo ndikusinthanitsa malingaliro mwaufulu - kusuntha kwakukulu pakati pa anthu omwe amaika banja ngati gawo lalikulu la chikhalidwe cha anthu komanso kumene mibadwo ingapo imagawana zochitika zapakhomo. Muufuluwu, nyumba za tiyi zili ndi ubale wamagazi ndi malo opangira khofi m'zaka za m'ma 1700 ndi 18 ku Europe, zomwe wanthanthi komanso katswiri wa chikhalidwe cha anthu waku Germany Jȹrgen Habermas amayamikira chifukwa chophwanya malamulo omwe tchalitchichi chinkasungidwa kale. Ena "amafotokoza mokhazikika", motero amathandizira kubereka Chidziwitso ndi boma.
China sangadziwike konse ndi 'boma-society duality' yomwe ikuwoneka Kumadzulo, monga wolemba mbiri Huang Zhongzheng akulembera mu 'China's 'Public Domain'/'Civil Society'?' (1993) Koma wolemba mbiri Qin Shao amakhulupirira kuti teahouses oyambirira, monga microcosms ya mizinda ndi midzi, anali adakali ndi mphamvu zogonjetsa. chifukwa cha anthu akale akale komanso "ziphuphu zamakhalidwe ndi chipwirikiti," Shao analemba mu 1998 essayj j mwa zina chifukwa teahouses mobisa amalola kutchova njuga, uhule ndi kuimba nyimbo zotukwana,q komanso chifukwa nthawi yopuma yokha imawonedwa mwadzidzidzi ngati chiwopsezo cha zokolola, kunyoza masiku ano komanso dongosolo latsopano la tsiku la ntchitoyo. Wang anagwira mawu mawu amene ananenedwa kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 1900 kuti: “Osalowa m'nyumba ya tiyi, osaonera masewero a m'deralo; ingolima minda ndi kulima mpunga.”
Monga mphamvu za boma zophatikizidwa pansi pa mtsogoleri wa chipani cha Communist Mao Zedong, moyo wapagulu sunachepetsedwe kokha, koma unasankhidwa kupyolera mu misonkhano yambiri ndi ma propaganda opezeka ponseponse.Panthawi ya Cultural Revolution ya 1960s ndi 1970s, teahouses ambiri anatseka pamene mawu omveka akhoza kutsutsidwa. Sizinafike mpaka nthawi ya Mao yomwe idayamba chakumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1970 pomwe mwambowu udatsitsimutsidwa pomwe boma lidasiya kugwira ntchito zabizinesi ndikutembenukira ku "chuma chamsika wasocialist" chotsogozedwa ndi mtsogoleri wanthawiyo Deng Xiaoping. .Pamene mikhalidwe ya moyo idawongokera, chomwechonso nostalgiajonce idawonedwa kukhala yowopsa ndipo cholinga chake chinali kuwononga miyambo yakale, zikhalidwe, zizolowezi, ndi malingaliro akale ndi Maoos shabby movementjas gawo la kutsimikiziranso chidziwitso cha chikhalidwe pakati pamavuto azachuma aku Chinaos. njira.Katswiri wa chikhalidwe cha anthu Zhang Jinghong analemba mu Pu-erh Tea: Ancient Caravans and Urban Fashion (2014), kusinthika kwachangu kukhala mphamvu yapadziko lonse.Kumwa tiyi kunyumba ndi poyera kwatsala pang'ono kukhala mchitidwe wokonda dziko, kutsimikizira kukhala Chinese.
Ku Shanghai - mzinda wapamwamba kwambiri waukadaulo ku China - mliriwu usanachitike, Dehe adakhumudwa, kutali kwambiri ndi omwe adawatsogolera ku Chengdu. Pali madera otanganidwa kwambiri atawuniyi, mwina makamaka malo ozunguliridwa ndi alendo a Huxinting Teahouse, nyumba yokongola kwambiri yomwe ili pamwamba pa nyanja ya Lotus. .Koma pakati pa zikwizikwi za nyumba za tiyi mumzindawu, wotsogolera watsopano akuganiza zosintha kuchoka pagulu la anthu kupita ku zobisika ndi kukonzanso, kaya ndi mipando yakale, monga Dehe, kapena consciously avant-garde The aesthetic style, monga Tingtai Teahouse, in. M50 m'chigawo cha Putuo chomwe kale chinali mafakitale, zigawo zake za zipinda zapadera zimasungidwa m'mabokosi okwera azitsulo zosapanga dzimbiri. M'malo ena, okonda tiyi amakonza mitundu yamtengo wapatali ya Icelandic Pu'er, Tieguanyin Oolong, ndi Dianhong (tiyi wakuda wochokera ku kum'mwera chakumadzulo kwa chigawo cha Yunnan cha China) pa tebulo.Kusungirako nthawi zambiri kumafunika ndipo malire a nthawi amaikidwa kuti makasitomala asachedwe motalika.Ndikuthawa, koma osati nthawi.
M’kafukufuku wa mu 1980 wokhudza kugwiritsiridwa ntchito kwa mabwalo a anthu mu Mzinda wa New York, “The Social Life of Small Urban Spaces,” mtolankhani wa ku America William H. White, yemwenso ndi wolinganiza mapulani a mizinda, ananena kuti pamene kuli kwakuti anthu “amanena kuti adzitalikire,” umboni ukusonyeza kuti. kuti amakopeka ndi malo otanganidwa: “Zikuoneka kuti ndi anthu ena amene amakopa anthu kwambiri.” Komabe, m'malo ena a tiyi omwe ndinapitako ndi Loh (ndipo pambuyo pake ndi wolemba zakudya Crystall Mo), kukumana pakati pa anthu osawadziwa kunasungidwa pang'ono. monga kukhala mu kalabu payekha; panthawi ina, nthambi ya Silver Creek Small Chain pa msewu wa Yuqing mumsewu wakale wa ku France, palibe zolembera kuchokera kunja, mzere wa zidole za chubby, zopanda mawu. Pakhoma. Polowa, Loh anakankhira mutu wa chidole chachiwiri kumanja, ndipo chitseko chikatsegulidwa, tinakwera masitepe, kudutsa nkhungu yomwe inkayenda. kokha ndi miyala yopondapo.
Masitolo a khofi tsopano akupikisana nawo 30,000-square-foot-foot Starbucks Reserve Roastery storefront ku Shanghaios Jingoan district, yomwe inatsegulidwa mu 2017jand teahouses adayenera kusintha.Ena amagwiritsa ntchito mkati mwawo kuti akope achinyamata; ena amagwiritsa ntchito tiyi ngati malo ofunikira, miyambo yofuna akatswiri aluso, kapena ngati chinthu chapamwamba chomwe mitengo ikukwera kufika pa ma yuan zikwi zingapo pa mphika, wofanana ndi madola mazana ambiri. akufotokoza kuti ndi "imodzi mwa malo otsika mtengo kwambiri a anthu," ndipo ndizovuta kwa anthu akunja kunena kuchuluka kwa mzimu wa teahouse wakale womwe adasunga, pomwe "anthu wamba" amatha miseche ndi kufotokoza Malingaliro, "Kutulutsa Maganizo Owononga Kuti Ayankhe. ku Kusintha kwa Anthu” popanda kuopa zotsatirapo kapena kulowererapo kwa boma. M'malo mwake, akuwoneka kuti ali ndi malingaliro amtundu wina, akumalingalira nthawi yomwe dziko linali lovuta kwambiri kapena lotsekeka mosavuta. kubwerera.
Masiku ano, Twitter ndi Facebook ndi zotsutsana zazikulu za teahouses, makamaka kwa iwo omwe ali ndi mwayi wopeza iwo. Ngakhale zili choncho, zambiri zikadalipo kwa iwo omwe akufunafuna. Pakanthawi kochepa ku Shanghai, anthu ena akumaloko adandiuza za zionetsero zokomera demokalase ku Hong Kong zomwe zidayamba kumayambiriro kwa chaka chimenecho (zolongosoledwa ndi atolankhani aku mainland ngati ntchito ya achiwembu omwe ali muukapolo. ndi nthumwi zakunja), ndi momwe Uighurs Vuto la Uighurs, gulu laling'ono lolankhula Chiturkic komanso Asilamu ambiri kumadzulo kwa China, opitilira miliyoni miliyoni omwe adatsekeredwa m'misasa yophunziriranso yomwe boma likunena kuti ndikofunikira kuthana ndi nkhanza zachisilamu. poyera ndipo palibe amene akuwoneka kuti akumvetsera.
Patadutsa zaka ziwiri, China idagonjetsa kwambiri Covid-19 (kuchokera ku mtundu wa Delta kumapeto kwa Julayi mpaka kutha kumapeto kwa Ogasiti) kudzera mu malamulo okhwima a chigoba komanso ukadaulo wowunikira, pomwe Kumadzulo ufulu wamunthu nthawi zambiri umakhala wamtengo wapatali pamaudindo onse. Kulimbana.Ngati pali chilichonse, boma la China ndi lamphamvu kwambiri kuposa kale, ndipo chuma cha dzikolo chikuchulukirachulukira ndipo chikhoza kugonjetsa United States mkati mwa zaka khumi, malinga ndi London Center for Economics and Business Research.Pankhani iyi, lingaliro la kumasulidwa. Mfundo yakuti palibe amene akumvetsera imakhala yakuda kwambiri: Kodi nchifukwa chakuti zilibe kanthu zimene anthu amanena? Chifukwa palibe chimene chidzasinthe?
Nyumba ya tiyi yokongola kwambiri yomwe ndinapitako ku Shanghai sinali malo enieni a tiyi nkomwe. Yomwe ili ku French Concession yakale, adilesiyi ili m'mbali mwa msewu, mayendedwe akupezeka pongosungitsa.Ngakhale Loh analipo kale, sanathe poyamba; Tinadutsa khomo lina, kenako lina, ndipo tinathera m'chipinda chodyeramo payekha.Iyi ndi Wanling Tea House, kumene Cai Wanling, mphunzitsi wa tiyi wochokera mumzinda wa Anxi kum'mwera chakum'mawa kwa chigawo cha Fujian (chigawochi chimadziwika ndi tiyi wa oolong), adatsogolera zomwe zidadziwika kuti Mwambo wa Tiyi waku China.
Ndi zida zake zolimba komanso mawonekedwe owoneka bwino, mwambo wa tiyi waku China, mwambo wa tiyi, nthawi zambiri umawonedwa ngati mwambo wakale, koma monga wolemba mbiri Lawrence Zhang adalemba, ndi zaposachedwa kwambiri, ndi zoyambira zakomweko. Chizoloŵezi cha tiyi cha Kung Fu, mpaka kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1970, sichinali chodziwika ku China kunja kwa Chaozhou kum'mwera chakum'mawa kwa China. tiyi alibe kanthu kochita ndi tanthauzo linalake la filosofi.Anadza pambuyo pake, mosonkhezeredwa ndi mwambo wa tiyi wa ku Japan, mtundu wocheperako wamwambo wa tiyi wa ku Japan wokhazikika pa tiyi wotentha wamasamba m'malo mwa tiyi wa ufa ndi wopukutidwa.
Pamene Cai adayamba, funso loti luso la tiyi linali lachikale kapena latsopano lidakhala lopanda ntchito.Zomwe adachita zinali kumvetsera mwatcheru, kuchepetsa masomphenya anga kuzinthu zochepa zomwe zili patebulo: gaiwan gaiwan, chivindikiro choyimira kumwamba, mbale yoimira dziko lapansi, ndipo thupi pokhala tiyi akukambitsirana pakati pawo; "chikho cha chilungamo", chikho cha chilungamo , choyikidwa pa 45-degree angle kwa gaiwan, momwe tiyi imathiridwamo, ndiye chikho cha mlendo aliyense, kotero onse adzalandira - monga mwachilungamo - mphamvu yomweyo ya tiyi; Chopukutira chaching'ono chopindidwa, kutayika.
Amadziwa tsiku lokolola la tiyi aliyense. Pano, tiyi wa oolong pa Okutobala 4, 2019; kumeneko, tiyi woyera pa March 29, 2016. Anakhala molunjika ngati ballerina. Asanapange tiyi, anaika masamba a tiyi mu gaiwan, anaphimba chivindikiro ndikuchigwedeza mofatsa, kenako anakweza chivindikirocho modekha ndikutulutsa fungo lake. Chigawo chilichonse - gaiwan, chikho cha Gongdao, chikho chamatabwa chomwe chimawotchedwa mu uvuni wazaka 400 - chimatenthedwa ndi dontho la madzi otentha ndikutsanulira mu mbale yam'mbali. teapot ya ceramic chifukwa zinthuzo sizikhudza kukoma kwake, ndipo zimangowiritsa madzi kamodzi kapena kawiri "kuti madziwo akhale amoyo," adatero.
Tiyi aliyense ali ndi nthawi yake yopangira mowa, yolondola mpaka yachiwiri, koma alibe wotchi yofotokozera. Pamene tiyi amapangidwa, ndinakhala naye chete. Chozizwitsa ndi ichi: kukumbukira momwe mungadziwire nthawi mwa kukhalapo, kugwira masekondi m'thupi lanu, sekondi iliyonse imakhala yokhazikika komanso yolemetsa modabwitsa. Sitithawa nthawi, koma mwanjira ina timadziwa. Anali ndi zambiri zondiuza - momwe kulowetsedwa koyamba kunali kosavuta, chachiwiri kumakhala kolimba; mmene tiyi utakhazikika mofulumira mu kapu dongo; momwe ankakonda kumwa tiyi wakuda wa oolong pa tsiku lamvula - Ndinatsamira ndikumvetsera, ndinatayika kunja kwa dziko kwa kanthawi.
Nthawi yotumiza: Jan-17-2022
