A tarihi, waɗannan wurare sun yi kama da sandunan populist. Tsarin zamani yana ba da damar komawa baya a cikin birni wanda ba shi da sirri - tsakanin baƙi.
Wani daki mai zaman kansa a cikin reshen Sarkar Teahouse na Jubilee na Azurfa ta Shanghai, inda baƙi za su ji daɗin ganye maras kyau da shayin foda da kayan ciye-ciye a cikin yanayi na yau da kullun.Credit…Josh Robenstone
Mata suna wasan kati, suna fuskantar dabara, ba tare da tabo ba. Hayaki daga sigari. Muna cikin gundumar Huangpu da ke tsakiyar birnin Shanghai, birni mai kusan mutane miliyan 25, amma matan shida ne kawai sauran abokan cinikin da na gani a gidan shayi na Dehe, Hanzo a hawa na biyu. dakin motsa jiki.
Oktoba ne 2019, kuma fiye da watanni biyu kafin rahoton farko a duniya game da sabon labari na coronavirus. Wuraren taron jama'a sun kasance a buɗe kuma suna tashe; Ba ni da abin rufe fuska a cikin jirgin ƙasa, ina yaƙi tare da baƙi. Gidan shayin, ya kasance hutu ne daga taron jama'a: Na shiga ta wata ƙofar dutse da zakoki masu murmushi ke gadi, sannan na haye wata gajeriyar gada bisa dozing koi a cikin wani kandami zuwa wani kabari mai kama da kabari. Sharar gida a sama Akwai baƙaƙen fale-falen fale-falen buraka da jajayen fitilun fitilun da ke ɗigo tare da gefuna. Jagorana, Ashley Loh na yawon shakatawa na Abinci na UnTour, ya kira gaba don yin alƙawari, kuma mun ɗauki tsari tare da kewaye, tare da labule da aka ɗaure a kusurwar padded. Tea Wai abin da muka kasance a nan ne, amma bayan mun ba da oda, sai muka lallasa, muka wuce matan da ke fankar katunansu, zuwa ga buffet - faranti masu zafi cike da porridge, miya na masara mai daɗi, tari da tari da borscht Miyan, bisa ga borscht da aka kawo. zuwa birnin da 'yan gudun hijirar Rasha suka yi bayan juyin juya halin Oktoba na 1917.
An ajiye wani dogon gilashi a gabana, wani akwatin kifaye wanda anemone ke zaune: wani chrysanthemum da aka zuba daga tsawo tare da ruwan zafi, yana samar da wani launi mai laushi mai laushi wanda ya fi shi ƙanshi. , Kusan gwaninta na bazata - jinkirin kwatsam daga birni wanda ya ci gaba; neman buyayyar wuri a cikin kasar da ke cin karo da ra'ayin sirri; Sabanin kadaitaka, yayin da muke tare da wasu, dukanmu mun sadaukar da kai don bin wannan lokaci mai wucewa. Ina tsammanin ina nan don shayi a gidan shayi, amma ya zama ina neman wani abu gaba ɗaya. Ban sani ba tukuna. wuraren da irin wannan za su rufe duniya a cikin 'yan watanni kuma duniya ta za ta ragu zuwa iyakokin gidana. Har yanzu ban san nawa zan rasa wannan ba.
Shayi dadadden tarihi ne, kuma ana iya cewa yana da matukar muhimmanci ga tunanin kasar Sin. Burbushin lardin Yunnan da ke kudu maso yammacin kasar ya nuna cewa akwai yiwuwar kakan bishiyar shayin kai tsaye shekaru miliyan 35 da suka wuce, tarihin noman shayin ya samo asali ne tun zamanin daular Zhou ta Yamma, wato shekaru 11 da suka wuce. -8 ƙarni BC; An samo ragowar shayi daga kabarin wani sarki da ya mutu a shekara ta 141 BC; An fara ambaton shan shayi a bainar jama'a a shekara ta 7 AD zuwa daular Tang a karni na goma, amma al'adun gidan shayi wani ci gaba ne na baya-bayan nan, kamar yadda masanin tarihi Wang Di ya rubuta a cikin Teahouses: Ƙananan Kasuwanci, Al'adun Kullum, da Siyasar Jama'a.Chengdu, 1900 -1950 (2008). Ya samo asali ne daga wuraren shan shayi na ilimi da farar hula titin ptiger stovesq, wanda ke sayar da ruwan zafi don yin shayi a gida, sannan ya fara kafa stools don abokan ciniki su dade.
A kasashen yammacin duniya, ana ganin gidajen shayi a matsayin wani wuri mara fa'ida na natsuwa da natsuwa, tare da salon wasan ballet mai salo da ke kara wani abin ban mamaki ga yin shayi da sha, yana karfafa zuci da tunani. kamar yadda bambance-bambancen da ke tsakanin dakin shayi na Japan, wani sarari da aka kera na musamman bisa ga tsantsar kyawun bikin shayi, ba wasa ba ne kamar na fasaha, kuma gidajen shayi ne inda geishas ke nishadantar da kwastomomi. Yunƙurin al'adun gidan shayi mai yiwuwa wanda ya kasance cikakke a farkon karni na 20 a Chengdu, kudu maso yammacin lardin Sichuan, sakamakon sha'awar dangantakar ɗan adam. ba sai an taru a kauyuka ba; a maimakon haka, sun zauna kusa da filayensu a warwatse, ƙauyuka masu zaman kansu , wanda ke kira ga wuraren tarurruka kamar gidajen shayi a matsayin wuraren zamantakewa da kasuwanci masu dacewa da Girkanci Agora, Dandalin Italiyanci da Larabawa Souks.
Ga mutanen Chengdu, wuraren shan shayi wani muhimmin bangare ne na rayuwar yau da kullun. A cikin 1909, akwai gidajen shayi 454 a titunan birnin 516. Yayin da suke kashe lokaci, abokan ciniki suna kawo tsuntsayen dabbobin su kuma suna rataye keji daga belin. , Waving Semi-surgical tools.Mahjong tiles crackled; masu ba da labari, a wasu lokuta masu lalata, suna jawo hankalin ɗimbin masu hannu da shuni; ad hoc “’yan siyasar gidan shayi” har ma sun yi ta ihun “Kada ku tattauna al’amuran jihar” a karkashin wata sanarwa da aka ba su, masu shaguna Suna buga irin wadannan kalamai, su ji tsoron hukumomin tsaro na dindindin. kowane gidan shayi ya cika, q Wang ya nakalto edita kuma malami Shu Xincheng a Chengdu a cikin 1920s. "Babu wurin zama sau da yawa."
A matsayin sararin samaniya da ke haɗa jama'a da masu zaman kansu, gidan shayi yana ba wa baƙi damar shiga da musayar ra'ayi a cikin ingantacciyar hanya ta kyauta - motsi mai tsauri a cikin al'umma wanda ke sanya dangi a matsayin babban rukunin zamantakewa kuma inda tsararraki masu yawa ke raba kwarewar gida. A cikin wannan 'yancin, gidajen shan shayi suna da alaƙar jini da gidajen kofi a ƙarni na 17 da 18 na Turai, wanda masanin falsafa kuma masanin ilimin zamantakewa na Jamus Jȹrgen Habermas ya yi la'akari da karya dokokin da cocin ke yi a baya. Wasu "bayani da keɓaɓɓu", don haka suna taimakawa wajen haifar da Haihuwa da jihar.
Ba za a taɓa mantawa da 'ƙananan al'umma guda biyu' da ake gani a yammacin duniya ba, kamar yadda masanin tarihi Huang Zhongzheng ya rubuta a cikin 'yankin jama'a' na kasar Sin'/' ƙungiyoyin jama'a'?' (1993).Amma masanin tarihi Qin Shao ya yi imanin cewa wuraren shan shayi na farko, a matsayin ƙananan birane da ƙauyuka, har yanzu suna da ikon rushewa. don diehards na zamanin da da kuma "lalacewar ɗabi'a da hargitsi na zamantakewa," Shao ya rubuta a cikin wata makala ta 1998 j wani ɓangare saboda gidajen shayi suna ba da izinin yin caca, karuwanci da waƙoƙin batsa, q amma kuma saboda ana ganin nishaɗin kansa ba zato ba tsammani a matsayin barazana ga yawan aiki, Wang ya ɗauko wani taken daga farkon ƙarni na 20: “Kada ku shiga gidan shayi, kada ku kalli wasan kwaikwayo na gida; kawai a yi noma a noma shinkafa.”
Yayin da ikon gwamnati ya karu a karkashin shugaban jam'iyyar gurguzu Mao Zedong, rayuwar jama'a ba wai kawai tauye take ba, amma an yi hadin gwiwa ta hanyar gangamin jama'a da farfaganda a ko'ina. A lokacin juyin juya halin al'adu na shekarun 1960 da 1970, gidajen shan shayi da yawa sun rufe lokacin da za a iya yin Allah wadai da maganar da aka ji. Sai bayan zamanin Mao da ya fara a karshen shekarun 1970 ne aka farfado da al'adar yayin da gwamnati ta sassauta ka'idojinta a kan kamfanoni masu zaman kansu, ta koma ga manufar "tattalin arzikin 'yan gurguzu" wanda shugaba na lokacin Deng Xiaoping ya ci gaba. .Yayin da yanayin rayuwa ya inganta, haka nan ma son rai ya yi la'akari da haɗari da nufin lalata tsofaffin al'adu, al'adu, halaye, da ra'ayoyin Maoos shabby motsijas wani bangare na sake tabbatar da al'adu a cikin tashe-tashen hankulan tattalin arzikin Chinaos. Masanin ilimin dan adam Zhang Jinghong ya rubuta a cikin Pu-erh Tea: Ancient Caravans and Urban Fashion (2014), saurin sauye-sauye zuwa ikon duniya.Shan shayi a gida da kuma a bainar jama'a ya kusan zama aikin kishin kasa, yana tabbatar da kasancewar Sinanci.
A Shanghai - babbar birni mafi ci gaban fasaha ta kasar Sin - kafin barkewar cutar, Dehe ya ji damuwa, mai nisa daga magabata na Chengdu. Amma a cikin dubban gidajen shan shayi na birnin, wani sabon jami'in tsaro ya ba da shawarar canjawa daga al'amuran jama'a zuwa ɓoyewa da gyare-gyare, ko a cikin saitunan da aka tanada da kayan gargajiya, irin su Dehe, ko kuma avant-garde na sane da salon ado, irin su Tingtai Teahouse, a cikin Gundumar fasaha ta M50 na yankin masana'antu na Putuo, ɗakunan dakuna masu zaman kansu suna zaune a cikin akwatunan bakin karfe. Lardin Yunnan na kudu maso yammacin kasar Sin) a kan tebur. Yawancin lokaci ana buƙatar tanadi kuma ana sanya ƙayyadaddun lokaci don abokan ciniki kada su daɗe da yawa. Wannan tsere ne, amma ba daga lokaci ba.
A cikin nazarin 1980 game da amfani da wuraren jama'a a birnin New York, "The Social Life of Small Urban Spaces," ɗan jarida ɗan Amurka da mai tsara birane William H. White ya lura cewa yayin da mutane "sun ce a nisance shi duka," shaidu sun nuna. cewa a zahiri suna jan hankalin wuraren da ake yawan aiki: “Da alama sauran mutane ne suka fi jan hankalin mutane.” Duk da haka, a wasu wuraren shan shayi na ziyarci Loh (kuma daga baya tare da marubucin abinci Crystall Mo), an kiyaye gamuwa tsakanin baƙi a mafi ƙarancin. kamar kasancewa a kulob mai zaman kansa; a wani lokaci, reshe na Ƙananan Sarkar Silver Creek a kan Yuqing Road a cikin tsohuwar Yarjejeniyar Faransa, babu alamun daga waje, jeri ne kawai na ƙwanƙwasa, ƴan tsana na sufaye marasa magana. A kan bango.Lokacin shiga, Loh ya danna kan 'yar tsana na biyu a hannun dama, kuma lokacin da ƙofar ta buɗe, mun hau matakan, muna wucewa da hazo. kawai ta hanyar tsakuwa.
Shagunan kofi a yanzu sun zama masu fafatawa a ciki gami da babban shagon Starbucks Reserve Roastery a gundumar Shanghaios Jingoan, wanda aka bude a shekarar 2017, gidajen shayi sun daidaita. Wasu suna amfani da kayan cikin su don jan hankalin matasa masu tasowa; wasu suna amfani da shayi a matsayin mai da hankali, bukukuwan na yau da kullun suna haifar da ɗaruruwan dala da yawa. ya bayyana a matsayin "ɗaya daga cikin wuraren zamantakewar jama'a mafi arha," kuma yana da wahala ga waɗanda ke waje su faɗi nawa ne daga cikin tsoffin ruhin shayin da suka riƙe, inda "mutane na yau da kullun" za su iya yin tsegumi da bayyana ra'ayi, "Sake Ƙaunar Rarraba Su Amsa. zuwa Canjin Al'umma" ba tare da tsoron sakamako ko tsoma bakin gwamnati ba. Maimakon haka, suna da alama suna ɗaukar wani nau'i na son zuciya, suna tunanin lokacin da duniya ba ta da buƙata ko kuma a sauƙaƙe rufewa. Wataƙila ƙaddamarwa ba ta kasance ba, amma akasin haka: ja da baya.
A yau, Twitter da Facebook za a iya cewa manyan gidajen shan shayi ne, aƙalla ga waɗanda ke da damar shiga ba tare da wata matsala ba. Duk da haka, duka biyun sun toshe ta hanyar Great Firewall a cikin China, kuma mafi kusancin dandalin sada zumunta na Weibo da saƙon saƙon WeChat ana sa ido sosai da su. Duk da haka, har yanzu akwai bayanai ga masu nemansa. A cikin ɗan gajeren lokaci na a Shanghai, wasu mazauna yankin sun ba ni labarin zanga-zangar neman demokraɗiyya a Hong Kong da aka fara a farkon wannan shekarar (wanda kafofin watsa labaru na kasar suka bayyana a matsayin aikin wasu 'yan baranda sun zama bayi. da jami'an kasashen waje), da kuma yadda 'yan kabilar Uighurs Halin da 'yan kabilar Uighur, 'yan kabilar Turkawa da galibinsu 'yan tsiraru musulmi ne a yammacin kasar Sin, fiye da miliyan daya da ake tsare da su a sansanonin neman ilimi da gwamnati ta yi ikrarin ya zama dole don yaki da tsattsauran ra'ayin Musulunci. jama'a kuma babu wanda ya yi kamar yana saurare. Amma kuma, wanene ni? Dan yawon bude ido ne kawai, mutum maras amfani, na wucewa.
Shekaru biyu bayan haka, kasar Sin ta yi galaba kan Covid-19 (daga bambance-bambancen Delta a karshen watan Yuli zuwa faduwar a karshen watan Agusta) ta hanyar tsauraran ka'idojin rufe fuska da fasahar sa ido, yayin da a Yammacin Turai galibi ana daraja 'yancin mutum fiye da alhakin gama kai. fada.Idan har wani abu, gwamnatin kasar Sin ta fi karfin da, kuma tattalin arzikin kasar yana da karfin tuwo, kuma zai iya mamaye Amurka cikin shekaru goma, a cewar cibiyar nazarin tattalin arziki da kasuwanci ta London. cewa babu wanda ke saurare yana ɗaukar sauti mai duhu: Shin don ba kome ba ne abin da mutane suke faɗa? Domin babu abin da zai canza?
Mafi kyawun gidan shayin da na ziyarta a Shanghai ba gidan shayi na gaske bane kwata-kwata. Yana cikin tsohon Yarjejeniyar Faransanci, wannan adireshin yana gefen titi, ana samun kwatance kawai lokacin yin booking. Ko da yake Loh ta kasance a can baya, ba ta same shi ba. da farko; mun bi ta wata kofa, sannan wata kofa, muka karasa cikin daki a wani gida mai zaman kansa.Wannan gidan shayi na Wanling ne, inda Cai Wanling, masanin shayi daga birnin Anxi a kudu maso gabashin lardin Fujian (yankin ya shahara da shayin oolong), ya jagoranci abin da aka fi sani da bikin shayi na kasar Sin.
Tare da nagartattun kayan aikinta da jadawali, bikin shayi na kasar Sin, bikin shayi, ana daukarsa a matsayin wata tsohuwar al'ada, amma kamar yadda masanin tarihi Lawrence Zhang ya rubuta, ya kasance na baya-bayan nan, kuma ya samo asali ne daga gida. Al'adar shayi ta Kung Fu, har zuwa karshen shekarun 1970, ba a san ta sosai a kasar Sin ba a wajen birnin Chaozhou dake kudu maso gabashin kasar Sin. Ko da yake shan shayin kasar Sin yana da dadadden al'ada na nuna godiya ga ilimi, amma ba a kayyade shi ba, kuma Zhang ya yi imanin cewa, asalin halittar Kung Fu. shayi ba shi da alaƙa da takamaiman ma'anar falsafa. Ya zo daga baya, wani ɓangare na wahayi ta hanyar bikin shayi na Jafananci, ƙaƙƙarfan sigar bikin shayin Jafananci wanda ya ta'allaka kan shayin shayi mai ɗanɗano mai ganye maimakon foda da whisked shayi.
Lokacin da Cai ya fara, tambayar ko fasahar shayi ta tsufa ko kuma ta zama sabo. Abin da ta yi shi ne ta mai da hankali sosai, ta taƙaita hangen nesa ga waɗannan ƴan abubuwan da ke jere akan teburin: gaiwan gaiwan, murfi mai alamar sama, saucer mai wakiltar ƙasa, da kuma jikin da aka kafa shayi ya yi shawarwari a tsakaninsu; da "kofin adalci", da kofin adalci , sanya a kusurwar 45-digiri zuwa gaiwan, wanda aka zuba shayi a ciki, sa'an nan kowane bako ta kofin, don haka duk za su karbi - a matsayin adalci aiki - daya shayi ƙarfi; karamin tawul mai ninke, zube.
Ta san ranar girbin kowane shayin ta. Anan, oolong shayi a ranar 4 ga Oktoba, 2019; can, farin tea on March 29, 2016. Ta miqe zaune kamar balerina, kafin tafara shayin ta zuba ganyen shayin a cikin gaiwan, ta rufe murfin ta girgiza a hankali, sannan ta dauke murfin ta shaka kamshin. Kowane bangare - gaiwan, kofin Gongdao, kofin katako da aka harba a cikin kiln mai shekaru 400 - ana dumama shi da digon ruwan zafi kuma a zuba a cikin wani kwano na gefe. tukunyar shayi na yumbu saboda kayan baya shafar ɗanɗano, kuma kawai yana tafasa ruwan sau ɗaya ko sau biyu “don kiyaye ruwan a raye,” in ji ta.
Kowane shayi yana da takamaiman lokacin shayarwa, daidai da na biyu, amma ba ta da agogon tunani. Yayin da aka sha shayin, na zauna tare da ita shiru. Irin wannan mu'ujiza ce: tunawa da yadda za a gaya lokaci kawai ta wurin kasancewa a can, rike da Daƙiƙa a cikin jikin ku, kowane daƙiƙa yana tsayawa da nauyi. Ba mu tserewa lokaci ba, amma ko ta yaya za mu iya sarrafa shi. Ta sami ƙarin gaya mani - yadda jiko na farko ya kasance mai laushi, na biyu kuma ya fi tsanani; yadda shayi ya yi sanyi da sauri a cikin kofin yumbu; yadda take son shan bakar shayin oolong a ranan damina – Na durkusa na saurara, na rasa a duniyar waje na dan wani lokaci.
Lokacin aikawa: Janairu-17-2022
